Identification: How To Ensure That Every Lost Dog Arrives Home Safe & Sound

Identification for your dog could easily be compared to insurance – you are glad you have it but you hope you never have to use it!

However, if you do, you'll feel safe and secure knowing that it's there. When it comes to your dog, and especially small puppies, you never know when they might accidentally slip out the back door and having proper identification can mean the difference between getting your lovable pet back into your arms, or losing her forever!

What Is The Best Type Of Identification For My Dog?

There are several types of identification that can be used to help identify your dog if he or she was ever to become lost. To give you a clear idea of each type so that you can make an informed decision on how to secure your dog, here is the list:

1. Basic Tags and Collars: This type of identification is fairly inexpensive and can be taken care of quickly. You can order metal or plastic tags that have your address and phone number imprinted on them. The tag will then be attached to the dog's collar. This form of identification is also easy to spot and anybody who sees a dog running loose can simply look down and check to see what family he belongs to.

Unfortunately, these tags can also be easily removed or torn off. If your dog or puppy loses this identification then there is very little chance of getting him back. Their are also thieves out there who will be more than happy to see a puppy roaming around by himself and remove its collar in order to take it home.

2. Microchips: Microchips for dogs and other house pets have been around for quite some time. Originally, every microchip that was functioning in the United States were set on a frequency signal of 125kHz. Now microchips are functioning with a 134.2kHz in order to conform to internationally used microchip systems.

Microchip identification is surgically implanted into your dog underneath the skin and generally in between the shoulder blades. The size is no bigger than a grain of rice and this small chip contains the owner's contact information that is uploaded to a national database. It takes a special scanner to read the number on each microchip. These scanners are usually available at many veterinarian facilities and animal shelters.

3. Tattoo Identification: Identification by tattoo is a third option that can be done quite easy and is typically inexpensive. Most of the time these tattoos will list your phone number and the puppy's name. The ears or stomach area is typically the location that a tattoo will be imprinted. The only cons are that tattoos can fade in time and even altered.

Backyard Dangers: Why Your Dog's Life May Be In Danger!

Have you considered that your dog's life may be in danger just from him hanging out in your backyard? Regardless if the area is fenced in and seemingly safe from danger, you would be surprised at what may be hiding, ready to hurt or even kill your lovable canine companion.

Your backyard may be a dog's paradise, but the area can be fraught with danger, especially if you have a puppy that is young, adventurous, and going through that oral fixation phase where he must chew on anything he can find.

The worst age bracket for this problem is between 1 and 6 months, however, other types of dogs, such as Golden retrievers as a prime example, seem to carry this chewing habit with them for the rest of their lives.

Beware Of The Following Backyard Dangers

As a busy dog owner, you may not have the time or the resources to properly research many aspects of raising an adult dog or puppy, therefore, below is a list of the most common dangers may be that lurking in your backyard.

This list is compiled from reports as outlined by the American Society For The Prevention Of Cruelty To Animals (ASPCS).

* Fertilizers and compost piles.
* Ornamental ponds that contain blue-green algae.
* Toxins created by animals such as insects, toads, spiders, scorpions, and snakes.
* Poison from citronella candles which are used to guard against mosquitoes.
* Swimming pool supplies and treatment chemicals.
* Mulch that contains Cocoa, which are typically placed around shrubs and other plants.
* Fly traps which contain methomyl.
* Poisonous plants like grape vines, azalea, castor bean, sago palm, and kalanchoe.
* Snail and slug traps which contain metaldehyde.

Be as proactive as you can by puppy-proofing not only the yard area, but the inside of your home as well. Close garbage cans tightly. Lock up all pool supplies. Put away your lawn and garden materials.

Further protect your animals by following the instructions carefully given on pesticide products, fertilizers, bug sprays, and other hazardous materials. I would even go as far as investigating all-natural products that can be used to replace these poisonous dangers. Ask your veterinarian or your local landscaper for some recommendations.

And if you ever suspect that your dog or puppy has ingested a dangerous poison, chemical, or is bitten by a venomous predator, contact your veterinarian or call the APCC: (888) 426-4435.

Dog Travel – Keeping Your Dog Safe When Traveling By Airplane

When you have to fly your dog by plane in order to travel to a new destination, the last thing most of us want is to stuff him in a box while he sits in the cargo area during the entire flight. Unfortunately, if you have no other choice but to use the airlines for your travel needs, your dog will have be placed in a crate for the flight.

Your job here is to make sure your dog or puppy is as comfortable as he possibly can be. Below are a few tips to help you prepare him for the flight:

1. You are going to have to invest in a USDA approved kennel that is designed for travel and should be custom fit to the size of your dog. Be sure that the kennel unit is stable and provides enough room for your dog or puppy to stand up in, as well as offers the ability for him to turn around if he needs to.

2. Never wait until the day of your flight to put your dog inside the kennel. Dogs do adapt easily, however, it is best to get him comfortable with the crate so that he will be a little more at ease. You can do this by having him sleep inside the kennel each night before your travel date. Three nights of this arrangement before the day of the flight is plenty of time.

3. If you know your flight will be longer than 10 to 12 hours, be sure to tape a small bag of dog food outside the crate, complete with feeding instructions.

4. For your own peace of mind and to avoid the small chance that your dog could miss his destination, write the destination of your flight on the top portion of the crate in big letters. Be sure to include your full name and address, as well as a phone number where you can be contacted.

5. It is best not to feed your dog within six hours of the flight. This will help reduce the chances of him having an accident and using the bathroom inside of the kennel.

6. In case your dog or puppy does happen to have a mess while flying, prep the kennel with a light layer of paper and bedding so that the urine and stools can be absorbed as best possible.

7. To avoid your dog from becoming dehydrated during the flight, place two bowls inside the kennel, one filled with a small amount of water, and the other filled with ice. The ice bowl will melt away bit by bit and provide plenty of fluids hours later.

8. Last but not least, if you have a very small dog like a chihuahua or a toy poodle, see if you can arrange to have a small crate to put your dog in that can fit underneath your seat. Do not wait until the last minute to talk with the airlines about this arrangement. Find out if boarding the flight with your small dog under your seat is possible as early as you can.

Dog Travel – How To Make The long Road Trip More Comfortable For Your

Dog Travel – How To Make The long Road Trip More Comfortable For Your Dog

Traveling with your puppy or dog can be a lot of fun. It's a great way to bond with your pet while experiencing new places along the way. If your road trip is going to be a long one then you need to take a few extra steps to plan accordingly and ensure that you and your puppy get to your destination safe and happy. Here are a few suggestions that can help:

1. The last thing you want to do is have to clean up the nasty mess of diarrhea inside your car. And your puppy or dog can easily give you this headache when you do not stick to his regular feeding times and with his normal food. It is very easy to feed your dog inconsistently when you are making a long trip by car. However, it will be best for both of you if you bring along bags of his normal food and only feed him at the same time you would at home.

2. Although it is obvious that you do not plan on ever losing sight of your dog during your travels, you should still make sure that his collar is secured tightly and that he has updated identification tags. If for some reason you're making a temporary stay for more than a day at a location until you arrive at your final destination, add an additional identification tag that has the address and phone number of that temporary location.

3. When you make a pit stop along the way, always leash your dog before he gets out of the car and keep a tight grip on him. Because he is in unfamiliar territory and may scare easily, the instinct to dart and run off may be strong. Keeping him tightly leashed will prevent this nightmare from happening.

4. Try to avoid traveling by car during weather periods of extreme heat and high levels of humidity. Dogs do not do well in this type of climate and if you must travel when it's hot then be sure your vehicle is equipped with a dependable air-conditioning system.

5. Every time you stop for a break during the trip, make sure you give your dog a few moments to exercise. Take your dog for a short walk or run him around the block. This will help get his blood flowing so that he can relax better for the next few hours of the ride.

6. Last but not least, as much as it is common sense, do not keep your dog in your car with the doors locked and windows rolled up. This is just basic safety advice that every person should know already, but unfortunately there are many accidents where dog's die from heat stroke while sitting in a car during boiling hot weather.

Dog Travel: More Helpful Tips When Traveling With The Family Dog

When you’re planning your next family trip, everyone is likely to be thrilled and will have more fun if you take the family dog along. Whether you are planning to travel by car, plane, train, or ship, in hot or cold weather - traveling with your dog doesn’t have to be difficult for you or your canine pal if you follow these simple pet travel tips:

1. Are you traveling outside of your home state or to another country? Make sure that you obtain an up-to-date canine travel document from the places you plan to visit. Most states and foreign countries require a health certificate from your vet including a statement that your dog has had his rabies shot. If you are going out of the country, you will also need these papers from a vet to get him back into a United States. And find out early about quarantine rules.

2. Advanced training in car etiquette will keep your dog safer, which means more pleasant traveling experiences for you and the other passengers on any car trip you take. It’s best to start him out on short drives, if possible, when he is still a puppy. Hold him on your lap or on the seat beside you to give him confidence. Right from the start, do not permit leaping in the car or any chance of jostling the driver. Helping your dog get accustomed to the sensation of motion in short stages will help greatly in preventing car sickness.

3. Your dog should have on his collar, a license tag, and identification plate which gives his full name, address, and contact number of a trusted person in case your pet is lost. However, you should take precautions against his straying and keep him on a leash in strange areas. Never let him run loose without supervision, regardless of how well-behaved and well-trained he is. Do not leave him alone in a hotel or motel room – it is easy for a room attendant to open a door and accidentally let your dog out.

4. Your dog will feel more at home, while in strange places, if you take along some familiar items like his favorite toy, his own grooming supplies, and feeding bowl. A small kit or suitcase for carrying these supplies is a great idea. A large plastic container is useful for carrying drinking water. He will also appreciate his own dog bed or blanket when you stay in a motel or hotel (and you can bet the proprietor will be grateful too).

5. Feeding while traveling doesn’t have to be a problem these days. Purchase soft-moist dog food, which is ideal for the traveling dog, since these foods do not require refrigeration and are easy to take along and serve. With his favorite food along, it will be easier for your dog to become used to the routine of traveling.

Dog's Worst Enemy – Man

Mark Twain once said, “If you pick up a dog and make him prosperous, he will not bit you. This is the principle difference between a dog and a man.”

Unlike fair weather friends, a dog cares little whether he is fed scraps in a cheap tin bowl or choice meats in a glass dish engraved in his name. He faithfully follows his owner over highly polished floors in a mansion as well as course boards in a cold, rundown apartment.

It matters not to him whether the hand that strokes his back is shaky and wrinkled or its fingers well manicured and soft. When given the slightest measure of affection, the dog will return it with interest.

The dog is the only domestic animal which has served man faithfully since the Middle Stone Age. From Michelangelo's Pomeranian, Napoleon's Fox Terrier, Lincoln's Teddy, or Roosevelt's pooches, dogs have always been part of man's life.

In spite of the long relationship between dog and man, some still fail to understand the animal's need or comprehend his nature. There are individuals who buy a dog as they would purchase a ticket at a race track, hoping to gain. When their expectations do not come true, the ticket, or dog, is discarded.

Anyone determined to have a perfect house instead of a lived-in home should never buy a dog. The animal will cover rugs with hair, may upset the furniture, and of course cause trouble now and again, even after being trained.

When Dog's “Go Human”

Another mistake often made is imposing human standards upon a dog. Although he can and should be trained, he must also be allowed to live as an animal. Dogs are made to run, not to vegetate on silk pillows. Nature endows him with a protective coat and, unless a dog is sick, he does not require turtle-neck sweaters or mink capes.

Some people handcuff a dog's paws with diamond bracelets and bejeweled wrist watches, and dress them in coats to match their own. They blithely ignore the fact that dogs cannot tell time nor appreciate luxury as long as the owners can make him a bulletin board of their wealth or subject of discussion at a cocktail party.

The pleasures and needs of humans are not necessarily those of dogs. If he is forced into a mold alien to his nature, he can become a misfit. The increasing number of dog psychologists would decrease greatly if man would use his power of reason, which is what supposedly separates him from other animals.

Remember...

In this selfish world, dog is man's most unselfish friend. In cities, he is a link between the cold, unfeeling jungle of skyscrapers and the warmth and pleasures of a responsive member of nature. Children, confined to apartments, save themselves from boredom by playing with and caring for a dog. Workers, returning home after a long day of stress and labor, feel comfortable and comforted with a dog waiting at the door, showering them with affection, and sharing their love by sitting at their feet.

Behavior Training – How To Change Your Puppy's Shy, Timid Behavior

Behavior Training – How To Change Your Puppy's Shy, Timid Behavior

Are you the proud owner of an extremely shy puppy? This fear-based behavioral characteristic is very common if you have a toy dog breed. However, it's a known fact that every litter will have a least one shy puppy that will need to be treated a little differently than the rest of the pups.

When these shy puppies grow up they can become extremely needy and look towards their owners for reinforcement in almost every situation they come across. And unfortunately, while this need to “run to mommy or daddy” every time she gets scared, your dog may start to initiate aggression if she is not getting the soothing attention needed. This could be labeled as aggression induced by fear.

Ironically enough, if you constantly caress and soothe your puppy when she demonstrates extreme shyness and becomes frightened, you are only reinforcing the behavior. I realize that it's hard to imagine ignoring your shy and scared puppy when she needs you, but if you would like to change her behavior and help the dog become a bold and social animal, you are going to have to quit letting her know that it is “okay” to be afraid.

Helping Your Shy Puppy Change

If your dog is showing signs of fear and timidness early on, then you will have to be patient when desiring to help her adjust. You must coax the dog along to realizing that you will not be her protector anymore. Behaviors that she is used to doing when getting scared will need to be stopped, such as barking while hiding behind your legs when startled, darting away whenever seeing a normal part of the outside, like a person walking or a bush swaying by the wind, etc.

Here are some tips that you can use to help your puppy become less shy:

1. Explain to your family and friends to ignore your puppy's fear-induced barking or crying whenever they approach. Up to this point your dog has acted out of fear whenever someone approaches and when these people naturally stop the approach, your dog has learned that this behavior works in her favor. However, from now on your dog will start to understand that fear-induced barking will not work anymore so long as your friends and family respect your training wishes.

2. Whenever you are expecting guests to arrive at the house, be sure to keep your puppy secured by a lead. Take her with you as you approach the guests if you can allow the dog to be with you all times. The difference from now on is that when she starts crying, barking, or hiding behind your legs, you will now act in a confident matter and without petting or soothing her. This will help your dog become more brave while teaching her that her old behavior will not work anymore

Early Socialization: Is Your Puppy Ready For The Outside World?

Early Socialization: Is Your Puppy Ready For The Outside World?

Exposing your puppy to different kinds of environments and experiences is a very important step in his learning process. In order to develop a healthy mental well-being, he needs to know that the world is a fun place to explore. This can only be achieved through proper and continuous socialization.

Socialization is the process of preparing your puppy for healthy mental development by exposing him in a positive way to different sights, smells, and sounds. Socialization also includes interaction with people, dogs and other animals, as well as other objects like moving cars.

Taking your puppy to a training class is an excellent way to introduce him to a variety of experiences. However, socializing your puppy calls for much more than teaching him training skills. Socialization teaches your pet to interact with different situations, explore without fear, and get to know as much as he can about the world around him, thereby giving him a wholesome life.

Preferably, socialization should begin in your puppy’s first home. His breeder should introduce him, along with the rest of the litter, to a variety of stimuli from the moment they are born.

For instance, the litter should be exposed to different bedding materials to get them used to different textures and surfaces. Objects like balls, squeaky toys, bubble wraps, plastic bags, and other items should be introduced slowly and often. This helps them approach new situations with confidence.

Below are a few examples of objects and situations that your pup should see and experience from the moment he opens his eyes:

* The sounds of different appliances in the house.
*A trip to the vet.
*Going up and down the stairs.
*Meeting different people of different ages.
*Meeting other puppies and dogs (Keep puppy on your arms and under closed supervision).
*Meeting people using wheelchairs, walkers, and canes.
*Meeting people wearing hoods, hats, coats, and loud clothes.
*Watching children play.
*Watching small animals such as birds and squirrels (do not allow chasing).
*Riding in the car inside a crate with windows rolled up and then rolled down.
*Light traffic.
*Light crowds.
*A flying kite or balloons.
*Introduce the pup to different “odd” objects like plastic bags and fire hydrants.
*Experience different sights, sounds, and smells of different objects.

My Dog Has Fleas!

My Dog Has Fleas!

Fleas are a problem for dogs and their owners alike. These tiny insects will live on the body of your dog, sucking the animal’s blood and laying eggs. The bites and presence of fleas will cause the dog to itch and if the dog happens to be allergic to fleas (the allergy is technically to the insects’ saliva) it can experience extreme itching, loss of fur in some places, inflammation, and infections. Regardless of whether the dog has an allergy to flea saliva, infestations must be dealt with or they will go on and on and the fleas will also infest your home, other pets, and can even live on humans. In short; you can be directly and adversely affected by an uncontrolled flea infestation.

Detecting Fleas

If you suspect that your dog has fleas because it’s been scratching more than usual, there are ways to check for their presence. Fleas are very small (about an eighth of an inch long), but visible to the naked eye, and brownish in color. Because they prefer dark places they will try to hide beneath the dog’s fur, under the collar, or on the underbelly. Their fecal material can also be seen on the dog’s coat and looks like multiple black flecks or specks – almost like pepper. If fleas or their droppings are found it is time to treat your dog to get rid of them.

Treating Your Dog for Fleas

While flea collars, powders, and sprays may help to prevent infestations to some extent, they will not help if the dog is already infested. When fleas are infesting a dog the female lays eggs at a rate of about thirty per day. These eggs fall off the dog and into the carpet, soil, or wherever the dog may be. In these areas they hatch and pupate, eventually growing into adult fleas which can then re-infest the dog. In order to halt the cycle all the fleas on the dog and in the environment must be killed or the life cycle must be interrupted.

There are several flea treatments available for dogs, but one of the best is an oral medication that will not kill adult fleas, but does kill the eggs and larva. This interrupts the flea life cycle and prevents them from coming back, as long as the dog is not continually exposed to new fleas. If that is happening, the source must be cleaned of fleas whether it is the carpet, the environment, or other dogs with which your pet associates.

Fleas can be a real nuisance for dogs and their owners, but catching them and treating the dog quickly is the key to eliminating the infestation and preventing the insects’ return.

Dog parks – Are You Practicing Good Dog Owner Etiquette While At The Dog Park?

Dog parks – Are You Practicing Good Dog Owner Etiquette While At The Dog Park?

Taking your dog to a dog park where he can roam free and socialize with other dogs is beneficial to both your pet as well as your peace of mind knowing that you are providing your companion with a high level of socialization. For example, in the city of San Diego there are two locations near the beach which offer a designated dog park which is a fenced in environment, in addition to a “dog beach” which is a section on the shore totally set up for dogs to roam free off leash.

Needless to say, the animals must also be accompanied with their owners, obviously. However, there are a few aspects and responsibilities of bringing your dog to such an environment that you must consider. Too many people make the mistake of letting their animals run free and completely disconnecting from the entire time their dogs are out socializing. By sitting on a bench in waiting until it's time to go home, you are potentially missing out on maintaining obedience etiquette with your dogs.

What does all this mean? I'm simply referring to the fact that your dog may cause several problems that you may not be aware of my leaving him alone at the dog park without any interaction from you. Below are a few ways that you can ensure your pet's safety and fun while at the dog park, in addition to keeping him under control and obeying your commands.

1. Leash your dog every now and again and walk him outside of the fenced enclosure. Initiate the basic commands that he is used to such is sit or stay. Be sure to reward the dog and then allow him to return to his fun. By practicing this activity you are letting him be reminded that obedience is still an important rule even though he is in the middle of doggie heaven.

2. While he is out running around with other packs of dogs, occasionally walk out and call him by name. Have him follow you for a quick petting before returning him to his games. This accomplishes two things: you are reminding him that you are still the leader and you are also letting other dominant dogs see that you have territory over your dog, thus preventing dominance aggression from other animals.

3. Always keep a close eye on your dog and be quick to avoid situations that may lead to unwanted behaviors. Be careful to look out for mounting, intense staring, or aggressive body language between two or more dogs. Watch out to make sure your dog does not suddenly lie on his back, tail tucked in, and possibly start urinating. This is a sign that your dog is completely overwhelmed and in fear. This happens all too often when groups of dogs get together at these parks and by nature, root out the submissive ones.

Chewing & Nipping: How To Curb Your Puppy From These 2 Annoying Behavior

Chewing & Nipping: How To Curb Your Puppy From These 2 Annoying Behaviors

We all love our puppies, especially when they are being cute and well behaved. We also adore them even when they are acting out in bad ways with annoying habits.

These annoying habits, however, are based on our standards of how they should behave. To our puppies, they are only acting like - well - dogs! But in order to keep the household a safe and peaceful place, they must learn to behave in the human world, and it is our job as their owners to make that happen.

With proper training, any puppy can learn to stop unpleasant habits such as the ones discussed below:

Nipping: Nipping during playtime is natural for all puppies, especially when they get excited. But regardless of how adorable your puppy looks or how harmless it may seem, nipping is a bad habit that needs to be stopped right away. Your puppy needs to learn that, even in play, his teeth should not touch human skin. Curbing this behavior now will greatly lessen the odds of your puppy growing up and biting someone in the future.

When your puppy starts to nip, turn his biting habit into focus on his toys instead of your hands. Have toys that are inviting to his mouth like chewy, rubber toys, especially those that come with treats inside, and soft, colorful plush toys that will peak his interest.

You do not have to wait for your puppy to get older before you start to train him. Even puppies as young as 8 weeks can learn to understand that nipping is not allowed. When he starts to bite during play, say “ouch” and back away for a few seconds. If he starts to bite again, walk away, go to a different room and close the door, but do not leave him alone for any longer than one minute.

Leaving him and going to another room with the door shut teaches him that biting hard “makes the fun go away”. He will eventually learn to control the pressure of his nipping. Once he learns to nip gently, raise the bar and say “ouch” to the gentle bites until he completely learns to stop altogether.

Chewing: Another annoying habit that frustrates us dog owners is when these cute little creatures chew on our stuff (especially those brand new shoes). Puppies have an insatiable urge to chew, mainly to soothe their aching gums as they go through their teething stage. It would be cruel to stop your puppy from trying to soothe his pain, but you can redirect his chewing to his toys instead of your shoes, clothes, books, etc.

Always have plenty of toys available for him to chew on. Get him used to chewing on these toys by having them around with him at all times while he’s still young.

Make sure to place these items in a confined area with your puppy so that he doesn’t focus his attention on other stuff around the house. If you see him chewing on something he’s not supposed to, say “no chew” and quickly replace the item with his chew toy. Make sure to praise him when he starts to chew on his toy.

Re-housebreaking Your Mature Dog (5)

Re-housebreaking Your Mature Dog (5)

At the first sign that your mature dog is going to eliminate (excessive sniffing of a particular area), the owner should immediately take him outside.

The reason is obvious. How can you praise a dog for doing something right if you are not there to see it? The owner should go outside with his dog. Supervision is crucial at this time!

This means that somebody has to take the dog outside. Somebody must place him in the proper position and the proper place for elimination, so that the action can be followed by praise. Somebody must be there to praise him. Dogs learn by associating their actions with pleasing or displeasing results. It is not enough that somebody is there to chastise and verbally admonish the dog for doing wrong; someone must be there to praise him for doing right.

The praise will be relatively meaningless unless it comes from the leader of the pack. This is you, his owner. If you fail to live up to your responsibilities, then you cannot justifiably blame your mature dog for failing to live up to his. Someone must show him the way. In the dog’s mind, it only counts if the teacher is the person the he loves and in whom he has confidence.

When you take your dog outside and fifteen minutes have elapsed without him eliminating, bring him back inside the house. But the supervision should not stop. In fact, it should be more constant. When the dog drops his nose to the floor and starts sniffing again, the owner should once again take him outside.

When your dog eliminates outside, you should be right there when it happens and praise him, then bring him back inside the house immediately. It is the same method that should be used if dealing with a puppy. Praise and correction are the keys with which we can successfully communicate with your dog.

It takes four days for the average dog to learn an average thing. For the mature dog or puppy who has unlearned something, it also takes four days for that dog to unlearn a learned behavior. Supervision is crucial to your success. The dog must be kept under constant watch while indoors so that positive corrective action can be taken.

The methods are identical for the dog that has never been housetrained. When a person adopts a mature dog from a pound, the dog is brought home and inside the house where he immediately eliminates on the floor. Training is therefore, crucial. It is much easier to train a mature dog than it is a puppy. Any dog, whether a year or twelve years old, can be trained to eliminate outdoors if the four day rule is followed through. The four day requirement for learning to take place in your dog’s mind should provide you with all the necessary patience.

Regardless of your dog’s age, praise is the communicating factor. Too many people feel that chastisement is the key. This is not true! Praise is the main ingredient. But in order to praise the dog for doing the right action, one must be with him nearby so that he can administer the praise.

There are five basic principles that a knowledgeable dog trainer always follows: Patience, knowledge, repetition, praise, and correction. By following these principals, you will have your housetrained dog back in less than a week. Good luck!

Re-housebreaking Your Mature Dog (3)

Re-housebreaking Your Mature Dog (3)

There are some isolated cases where the cause of a breakdown in toilet habits in a mature dog starts as a psychological motivation, but results in a problem becoming medically motivated. An example of this would be the dog that suddenly forgets his housebreaking and urinates out of jealousy and spite.

A dog of this type could develop a psychosomatic urinary tract infection, therefore giving him a reason to eliminate at will anywhere in the house. Such a condition can be inspired by the arrival of another pet like a cat or a bird, a new baby, or any other attention-stealing tangible. Verbal punishment in such cases will only perpetuate the problem.

The dog is getting attention which is, after all, what he wanted in the first place. As long as he is getting this extra attention, whether it is shaming or admonishment, he will continue whatever action prompts his attention. Competition can cause a breakdown in toilet habits without the problem evolving into a psychosomatic urinary tract infection. The dog owner should understand that competition alone can be the cause of the problem. And when there is competition, the dog wets!

The competition can be real or imagined. In either case, a thorough examination into any recent changes in household routine would be in order. Something may be giving the dog a feeling that his position, or your affection for him is in jeopardy. Whether actual or simply imagined, it is very real to the dog. If competition is to blame, extra time spent with your dog, and maybe even exaggerated affection, will normally suffice in removing the motivator of his bad deeds.

Then there is the sort of dog who indulges in the type of wetting where he lifts his leg against everything; bedding, curtains, furniture, etc. and finds it necessary to try and own or control his environment by wetting on it. This is the type of dog who is self-oriented, selfish, narcissistic animal that he wets on everything to make it more his own territory. This is a dog that needs a master in all the purest and literal sense of the word.

That type of dog suddenly realizes that he is the leader of the pack, although he really doesn’t want to be. This dog is insecure and wants, in fact needs, strong and confident leadership. These actions usually materialize as a result of soft, permissive, easy-going dog owners who spoil and baby their dog. The ratio of love and discipline are tipped only in the direction of love.

Love in this instance is not a healthy love, both for the dog owner and his dog. It’s permissiveness by an owner who is afraid that discipline may cause the dog to not like the owner. In reality, mistaken kindness can be a bitter and unneeded cruelty. When these dogs are placed in the pound and put to sleep, there’s nobody to blame but their owners who thought so little of their pets that they failed to bring them up with the proper balance of love, discipline, and control.

Re-housebreaking Your Mature Dog (1)

Re-housebreaking Your Mature Dog (1)

There is a certain element of surprise, perhaps even shock, when the owner of a perfectly trained and well-behaved adult dog suddenly steps in a puddle. “No, it can’t be!” He shrieks.

The possible alternative, such as a defrosting refrigerator, leaky water pipes, or a spilled cup of coffee give way to the awful truth; he actually sees the loyal household dog in the act of soiling inside the house.

The screaming and disbelief was followed by the slam of the back door as the old family pet is quickly banished out-of-doors like a nine-week old puppy that had just had an accident. Such harsh and fast action in such an instance can have serious and detrimental effects on the older dog. Whenever a completely housebroken dog starts urinating in the house, there is a medical or psychological cause involved.

The medical reasons will be covered first, since the majority of cases can be traced to that cause, rather than the psychological. It is important that the reasons for such behavior be pointed out and thoroughly checked before any retraining techniques are instituted.

Most dog owners know that the aging process of their dog will manifest itself in a gradual loss of hearing, followed by diminished vision. Squeezed somewhere in between, signs of arthritis might show up, decreased in appetite, more frequent naps, and other tell-tale signs which may become evident. What is not widely known is that toilet training is one of the first things to go!

Because this fact is not widely known and realized, it causes frustration and confusion to the dog owner who suddenly thinks that his dog has forgotten, is not as smart as previously thought, is lazy, or has turned into a sneak. Such behavior on the part of a perfectly housetrained dog could simply be the first signs of the inevitable aging process. In this aging process, the muscles of the bladder gradually lose their control.

In the male, the aging process can also cause the prostate gland to enlarge, and this will produce an inflammation which will cause him to urinate often. Kidney diseases occurs in about 76% of dogs over eight years of age. When a dog ages, there is a gradual degeneration of kidney tissue with a weakening of the kidney function.

The older dog should drink at least twice the amount of water than a younger dog since the older dog’s kidneys will require it. Naturally, this will involve more frequent urination, thus more trips to the bathroom.

Where the middle-aged dog would have required being let out in the morning and once at night, the aging process will require more freedom outdoors. In most cases, the older dog will try to make his needs known to his owner. However, the owner, who is used to a regular routine, just isn’t tuned in to the dog’s new requirement. Then, the old dog is left with just one alternative. It’s just as embarrassing to him as it may be to the owner.

In such cases, shaming and scolding will only make the situation worse, especially if the dog tried to communicate, only to have his communication fall on deaf or inattentive ears.

House Training: Is Your Dog Refusing To Follow Your House Training Rules?

House Training: Is Your Dog Refusing To Follow Your House Training Rules?

Some dogs just absolutely refuse to become house trained. No matter how long and hard you have tried to implement techniques to get your dog to use the bathroom in the proper areas, he still chooses to be “vengeful” towards you by not following your instructions, right?

Wrong! The common misconception that your dog is trying to be vindictive and countermine your housetraining efforts by refusing to follow the rules is a complete myth.

Dogs only have the capacity for simple, direct emotions, such as being happy, sad, or scared. Their minds are not capable of plotting ways to seek revenge for that swat on his rear, or how you scolded him an hour ago.

Dogs do, however, remember and draw upon past experiences that they associate with current situations. But it is important to understand that these associations only create an emotion in which they will feel when going through a similar experience.

In other words, lets say that you punish your dog for urinating on the front porch. If you continue to scold him for this behavior then eventually your dog will become fearful of using the bathroom outside. All he knows is that he is “outside”, not on the front porch. Your efforts will countermine your housetraining goals.

For this reason alone, it is important never to punish or yell at your dog when he uses the bathroom inside the house. Most housetraining problems actually stem from owners who completely instill fear in their pets when they go potty on the floor. This creates enough trauma to completely halt all of your housetraining efforts.

The key is trying not to react. Instead, remove your dog from the room and take him outside in a very calm and relaxed manner. Be sure that he does not see you cleaning up his mess. Quietly clean the area and be sure to use an enzyme-containing house cleaner. Vinegar or liquid soap will do just fine as well. By completely removing all of the older, this helps reduce your dog's need to urinate and mark the same spot over and over.

Tip: Avoid using ammonia because the smell is very similar to that of a dog's urine and can stimulate him to pee in the same area.

When all else fails, schedule a visit with your veterinarian so that the doctor can do a complete health checkup of your dog to make sure that there is not a health-related reason for his inability to become house trained.

Some dogs can be harboring illnesses that may prove to be the cause of not having the ability to control their bowel movements. Such illnesses could be caused by ticks, such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, or the most common reason: a urinary tract infection.

Potty Training – Potty Train Your Puppy In 4 Easy Steps

Potty Training – Potty Train Your Puppy In 4 Easy Steps

If there is one thing that all dog owners can relate to it is the experience of taking a puppy that has no clue about the proper area to use the bathroom in and then training him to be a responsible pet to use the bathroom in the appropriate place and at the appropriate times.

Housebreaking a dog is also the most common area where many dog owners initiate the wrong kinds of training protocols. It is this situation where people could use just a few common sense tips to get their dogs quickly introduced to the proper way to use the bathroom.

The first thing you need to keep in mind is that all animals have a natural instinct to avoid soiling the very place in which they sleep and eat. Of course brand new puppies may not get it right away, but it doesn't take long for them to realize that they do not want to urinate or create stools where they live and play.

Here are a few housebreaking tips that you can use today which will help get your puppy on his way to being properly trained when he has to use the bathroom:

1. When you wake up in the morning, avoid praising or greeting your puppy until he has used the bathroom. This will develop into a routine for him and once he realizes that he gets a lot of loving attention and praise after he uses the bathroom in the morning, this pattern will stick in his head and he will understand what to do in order to get what he wants, which is your praise!

2. When you start to bring your puppy outside or wherever it is you want him to use the bathroom at, stick to using just one command each time you lead him to the potty area. For example, I use the words "Go pee pee".

3. Whatever route you take when you leave him from the house to his potty area, use this same path every single time you take him to use the bathroom. This will help create a pattern so that he understands that it is time to go to the bathroom when you are walking him through the same route.

4. And of course, it should go without saying that you need to use a lot of praise and loving caresses when your puppy properly uses the bathroom in the designated area. You must help him associate housebreaking with a positive experience and showering him with love and affection is the right way to do it.