Identification for your dog could easily be compared to insurance – you are glad you have it but you hope you never have to use it!
However, if you do, you'll feel safe and secure knowing that it's there. When it comes to your dog, and especially small puppies, you never know when they might accidentally slip out the back door and having proper identification can mean the difference between getting your lovable pet back into your arms, or losing her forever!
What Is The Best Type Of Identification For My Dog?
There are several types of identification that can be used to help identify your dog if he or she was ever to become lost. To give you a clear idea of each type so that you can make an informed decision on how to secure your dog, here is the list:
1. Basic Tags and Collars: This type of identification is fairly inexpensive and can be taken care of quickly. You can order metal or plastic tags that have your address and phone number imprinted on them. The tag will then be attached to the dog's collar. This form of identification is also easy to spot and anybody who sees a dog running loose can simply look down and check to see what family he belongs to.
Unfortunately, these tags can also be easily removed or torn off. If your dog or puppy loses this identification then there is very little chance of getting him back. Their are also thieves out there who will be more than happy to see a puppy roaming around by himself and remove its collar in order to take it home.
2. Microchips: Microchips for dogs and other house pets have been around for quite some time. Originally, every microchip that was functioning in the United States were set on a frequency signal of 125kHz. Now microchips are functioning with a 134.2kHz in order to conform to internationally used microchip systems.
Microchip identification is surgically implanted into your dog underneath the skin and generally in between the shoulder blades. The size is no bigger than a grain of rice and this small chip contains the owner's contact information that is uploaded to a national database. It takes a special scanner to read the number on each microchip. These scanners are usually available at many veterinarian facilities and animal shelters.
3. Tattoo Identification: Identification by tattoo is a third option that can be done quite easy and is typically inexpensive. Most of the time these tattoos will list your phone number and the puppy's name. The ears or stomach area is typically the location that a tattoo will be imprinted. The only cons are that tattoos can fade in time and even altered.
Showing posts with label pets. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pets. Show all posts
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Friday, February 27, 2009
New Puppy Shopping 1
New Puppy Shopping 1
“He always looks for me when he feels an attack coming on. His eyes glaze over, he starts panting, and then the convulsions begin. I just sit on the floor and pet him and sweet talk him. There is nothing that I can do but let him know I'm there and that I care about him.”
This is how Sandy, a long-time friend of mine, described an epileptic seizure of her 5 year-old Beagle. His seizures started when he was three and reoccur sporadically.
Sandy went on to tell me: “I've heard that sometimes a dog will have one or two seizures and never have another. But my dog has them so frequent now that I'm sure he'll always have this problem.”
Every year hundreds of puppy-buyers find themselves troubled with pets suffering from unsound health or poor temperament. It's easy enough to say that these dogs should be humanely destroyed. But how do you explain this decision to the children? It's even difficult for adults to adjust to the death of a beloved pet. Some people, like Sandy, may feel it worthwhile to keep a pet in spite of his problems.
So How Can One Avoid Buying Pets Like These In The First Place?
To start with, don't just buy the first cute puppy you see; a little investigation can really pay off in the long run. Breed clubs can be invaluable in helping you locate most of the reputable breeders in your area. Write to the A.K.C. For the name and address of the breed club secretary; then arrange by phone to visit any nearby kennels.
At the kennel, ask to see the sire and dam before even looking at the puppies. Although none of the obvious health problems will be apparent, you will be able to judge the dogs' personalities for yourself. If the parents are nervous, frightened, or overly aggressive, you will be better off looking somewhere else.
If the dogs slink away or are afraid to be touched, don't listen to excuses like, “Kennel dogs don't see many people, so it's normal behavior.” Or to justify the behavior of a dog that snaps, you might be told, “When Sparky was a puppy he had a bad experience and now he doesn't trust people anymore.”
All of this may be true, and told to you with real sincerity, however, it might be that the dog would have been mean or shy no matter what. You have no real way of knowing for sure, and the breeder doesn't either. It's better not to take a chance. If both parents are friendly, outgoing, and in good condition, the puppies will probably be the same.
“He always looks for me when he feels an attack coming on. His eyes glaze over, he starts panting, and then the convulsions begin. I just sit on the floor and pet him and sweet talk him. There is nothing that I can do but let him know I'm there and that I care about him.”
This is how Sandy, a long-time friend of mine, described an epileptic seizure of her 5 year-old Beagle. His seizures started when he was three and reoccur sporadically.
Sandy went on to tell me: “I've heard that sometimes a dog will have one or two seizures and never have another. But my dog has them so frequent now that I'm sure he'll always have this problem.”
Every year hundreds of puppy-buyers find themselves troubled with pets suffering from unsound health or poor temperament. It's easy enough to say that these dogs should be humanely destroyed. But how do you explain this decision to the children? It's even difficult for adults to adjust to the death of a beloved pet. Some people, like Sandy, may feel it worthwhile to keep a pet in spite of his problems.
So How Can One Avoid Buying Pets Like These In The First Place?
To start with, don't just buy the first cute puppy you see; a little investigation can really pay off in the long run. Breed clubs can be invaluable in helping you locate most of the reputable breeders in your area. Write to the A.K.C. For the name and address of the breed club secretary; then arrange by phone to visit any nearby kennels.
At the kennel, ask to see the sire and dam before even looking at the puppies. Although none of the obvious health problems will be apparent, you will be able to judge the dogs' personalities for yourself. If the parents are nervous, frightened, or overly aggressive, you will be better off looking somewhere else.
If the dogs slink away or are afraid to be touched, don't listen to excuses like, “Kennel dogs don't see many people, so it's normal behavior.” Or to justify the behavior of a dog that snaps, you might be told, “When Sparky was a puppy he had a bad experience and now he doesn't trust people anymore.”
All of this may be true, and told to you with real sincerity, however, it might be that the dog would have been mean or shy no matter what. You have no real way of knowing for sure, and the breeder doesn't either. It's better not to take a chance. If both parents are friendly, outgoing, and in good condition, the puppies will probably be the same.
Monday, February 9, 2009
House Training: Is Your Dog Refusing To Follow Your House Training Rules?
House Training: Is Your Dog Refusing To Follow Your House Training Rules?
Some dogs just absolutely refuse to become house trained. No matter how long and hard you have tried to implement techniques to get your dog to use the bathroom in the proper areas, he still chooses to be “vengeful” towards you by not following your instructions, right?
Wrong! The common misconception that your dog is trying to be vindictive and countermine your housetraining efforts by refusing to follow the rules is a complete myth.
Dogs only have the capacity for simple, direct emotions, such as being happy, sad, or scared. Their minds are not capable of plotting ways to seek revenge for that swat on his rear, or how you scolded him an hour ago.
Dogs do, however, remember and draw upon past experiences that they associate with current situations. But it is important to understand that these associations only create an emotion in which they will feel when going through a similar experience.
In other words, lets say that you punish your dog for urinating on the front porch. If you continue to scold him for this behavior then eventually your dog will become fearful of using the bathroom outside. All he knows is that he is “outside”, not on the front porch. Your efforts will countermine your housetraining goals.
For this reason alone, it is important never to punish or yell at your dog when he uses the bathroom inside the house. Most housetraining problems actually stem from owners who completely instill fear in their pets when they go potty on the floor. This creates enough trauma to completely halt all of your housetraining efforts.
The key is trying not to react. Instead, remove your dog from the room and take him outside in a very calm and relaxed manner. Be sure that he does not see you cleaning up his mess. Quietly clean the area and be sure to use an enzyme-containing house cleaner. Vinegar or liquid soap will do just fine as well. By completely removing all of the older, this helps reduce your dog's need to urinate and mark the same spot over and over.
Tip: Avoid using ammonia because the smell is very similar to that of a dog's urine and can stimulate him to pee in the same area.
When all else fails, schedule a visit with your veterinarian so that the doctor can do a complete health checkup of your dog to make sure that there is not a health-related reason for his inability to become house trained.
Some dogs can be harboring illnesses that may prove to be the cause of not having the ability to control their bowel movements. Such illnesses could be caused by ticks, such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, or the most common reason: a urinary tract infection.
Some dogs just absolutely refuse to become house trained. No matter how long and hard you have tried to implement techniques to get your dog to use the bathroom in the proper areas, he still chooses to be “vengeful” towards you by not following your instructions, right?
Wrong! The common misconception that your dog is trying to be vindictive and countermine your housetraining efforts by refusing to follow the rules is a complete myth.
Dogs only have the capacity for simple, direct emotions, such as being happy, sad, or scared. Their minds are not capable of plotting ways to seek revenge for that swat on his rear, or how you scolded him an hour ago.
Dogs do, however, remember and draw upon past experiences that they associate with current situations. But it is important to understand that these associations only create an emotion in which they will feel when going through a similar experience.
In other words, lets say that you punish your dog for urinating on the front porch. If you continue to scold him for this behavior then eventually your dog will become fearful of using the bathroom outside. All he knows is that he is “outside”, not on the front porch. Your efforts will countermine your housetraining goals.
For this reason alone, it is important never to punish or yell at your dog when he uses the bathroom inside the house. Most housetraining problems actually stem from owners who completely instill fear in their pets when they go potty on the floor. This creates enough trauma to completely halt all of your housetraining efforts.
The key is trying not to react. Instead, remove your dog from the room and take him outside in a very calm and relaxed manner. Be sure that he does not see you cleaning up his mess. Quietly clean the area and be sure to use an enzyme-containing house cleaner. Vinegar or liquid soap will do just fine as well. By completely removing all of the older, this helps reduce your dog's need to urinate and mark the same spot over and over.
Tip: Avoid using ammonia because the smell is very similar to that of a dog's urine and can stimulate him to pee in the same area.
When all else fails, schedule a visit with your veterinarian so that the doctor can do a complete health checkup of your dog to make sure that there is not a health-related reason for his inability to become house trained.
Some dogs can be harboring illnesses that may prove to be the cause of not having the ability to control their bowel movements. Such illnesses could be caused by ticks, such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, or the most common reason: a urinary tract infection.
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Dog Training – Why You Should Never Shout At Your Dog
Dog Training – Why You Should Never Shout At Your Dog
If you have a new puppy in the house and are unclear about whether or not you should use yelling as a way to get him to stop doing something wrong or barking too much, then this article should clear up your confusion. If anything, you should learn the simple fact that yelling at your dog it does nothing to fix a problem, stop what he's doing, or induce any type of positive reinforcement.
Yes your dog may stop doing a certain activity temporarily after yelling at him, but he will only return to whatever behavior he was displaying which made you angry in the first place. Why? Because when you shout at your dog it does nothing to fix the issue, yelling only works as a temporary solution.
Most puppies think of their owners as other dogs. And when you start yelling at your pet, it only increases how excited he is about the situation. You also cause your dog to create a negative association between yelling and how he feels around you. He will soon start to connect yelling with the idea that he is disliked or unwanted, and will not have the ability to know that he is actually breaking a rule that you are trying to establish.
Not All Loud Voice Commands Are Bad
Even though yelling at your dog is considered to be of poor communication skills, there are definitely times when you need to firm up the tone of your voice and change the way you come across to him. There are three general forms of communication in terms of the way you speak to your dog that you can apply:
1. The soothing tone of voice. A soothing and delightful tone of voice should be used whenever you want to give praise to your dog. When you communicate this way, you should be able to relax and soothe him as opposed to creating excitability. Speaking to your puppy in a soothing tone of voice makes him feel secure and proud knowing that you are happy with him.
2. The second tone of voice used when communicating with your dog is more of a direct tone. A direct tone would be the same way you give commands to your puppy when you want to get his attention. It should be short, firm, and authoritative.
3. The third general tone of voice you can use with your dog is more of a disciplinary tone. However, you must learn to draw a fine line between a disciplinary tone and a yelling tone. Remember, you do not want to yell your dog but there are certainly times when you need to get across to him to back away from something quickly or to stop doing something immediately, all without actually scaring him off with shouting. Personally, I like to use two syllables such as "DOWN BOY" or "SPARKY NO".
If you have a new puppy in the house and are unclear about whether or not you should use yelling as a way to get him to stop doing something wrong or barking too much, then this article should clear up your confusion. If anything, you should learn the simple fact that yelling at your dog it does nothing to fix a problem, stop what he's doing, or induce any type of positive reinforcement.
Yes your dog may stop doing a certain activity temporarily after yelling at him, but he will only return to whatever behavior he was displaying which made you angry in the first place. Why? Because when you shout at your dog it does nothing to fix the issue, yelling only works as a temporary solution.
Most puppies think of their owners as other dogs. And when you start yelling at your pet, it only increases how excited he is about the situation. You also cause your dog to create a negative association between yelling and how he feels around you. He will soon start to connect yelling with the idea that he is disliked or unwanted, and will not have the ability to know that he is actually breaking a rule that you are trying to establish.
Not All Loud Voice Commands Are Bad
Even though yelling at your dog is considered to be of poor communication skills, there are definitely times when you need to firm up the tone of your voice and change the way you come across to him. There are three general forms of communication in terms of the way you speak to your dog that you can apply:
1. The soothing tone of voice. A soothing and delightful tone of voice should be used whenever you want to give praise to your dog. When you communicate this way, you should be able to relax and soothe him as opposed to creating excitability. Speaking to your puppy in a soothing tone of voice makes him feel secure and proud knowing that you are happy with him.
2. The second tone of voice used when communicating with your dog is more of a direct tone. A direct tone would be the same way you give commands to your puppy when you want to get his attention. It should be short, firm, and authoritative.
3. The third general tone of voice you can use with your dog is more of a disciplinary tone. However, you must learn to draw a fine line between a disciplinary tone and a yelling tone. Remember, you do not want to yell your dog but there are certainly times when you need to get across to him to back away from something quickly or to stop doing something immediately, all without actually scaring him off with shouting. Personally, I like to use two syllables such as "DOWN BOY" or "SPARKY NO".
Monday, February 2, 2009
Dog Training:Teaching Your Dog The Basic Command of "Come Here"
Dog Training – Teaching Your Dog The Basic Command Of “Come Here”
Dog training does not have to be complicated, nor does it take enormous amounts of time to teach your pet the basics. Speaking of basics, we all want our dogs to come to us when called. There are many ways to go about this dog training procedure, below is perhaps the easiest way.
The following instructions will have your dog responding to your "come" command in no time. This easy technique revolves around luring your dog and then rewarding him. Please note that this will be a lot easier if your dog is hungry before beginning training. Also, have handy small dog treats that you will use as a training aid.
1. First stand in front of your dog and hold a dog treat in between your thumb and index finger so it can easily be seen. Your arm should be in front of you but resting on your leg.
2. Now simply get the atmosphere exciting to your dog by putting on a great big smile and with a sweet and fun tone of voice, say "Sparky, Come!" Do not overdo the come command with too much excitement, just enough to get him to notice you and realize that you are happy.
3. Your puppy should start running towards you, especially at the sight of the dog treat in your hand. Most dogs come running at the first hint of food, but your puppy may need a little more motivation. If after a moment he does not respond, your next move is to squat down and reach out with the treat just slightly, while calling his name again and getting the "come" command.
4. Once your puppy does arrive at the treat and in front of you, try to lure him into the sitting position by stroking his neck and upper back with one hand and applying pressure on his hind for him to sit, while slowly moving the treat to his mouth with your other hand. Now is the perfect time to start praising him in a loving voice and creating a positive feeling that he will want to experience again when you call his name and ask them to come to you.
5. Eventually drop the dog treats altogether and repeat the above steps, but offering praise instead of food when your dog comes to you.
Dog training does not have to be complicated, nor does it take enormous amounts of time to teach your pet the basics. Speaking of basics, we all want our dogs to come to us when called. There are many ways to go about this dog training procedure, below is perhaps the easiest way.
The following instructions will have your dog responding to your "come" command in no time. This easy technique revolves around luring your dog and then rewarding him. Please note that this will be a lot easier if your dog is hungry before beginning training. Also, have handy small dog treats that you will use as a training aid.
1. First stand in front of your dog and hold a dog treat in between your thumb and index finger so it can easily be seen. Your arm should be in front of you but resting on your leg.
2. Now simply get the atmosphere exciting to your dog by putting on a great big smile and with a sweet and fun tone of voice, say "Sparky, Come!" Do not overdo the come command with too much excitement, just enough to get him to notice you and realize that you are happy.
3. Your puppy should start running towards you, especially at the sight of the dog treat in your hand. Most dogs come running at the first hint of food, but your puppy may need a little more motivation. If after a moment he does not respond, your next move is to squat down and reach out with the treat just slightly, while calling his name again and getting the "come" command.
4. Once your puppy does arrive at the treat and in front of you, try to lure him into the sitting position by stroking his neck and upper back with one hand and applying pressure on his hind for him to sit, while slowly moving the treat to his mouth with your other hand. Now is the perfect time to start praising him in a loving voice and creating a positive feeling that he will want to experience again when you call his name and ask them to come to you.
5. Eventually drop the dog treats altogether and repeat the above steps, but offering praise instead of food when your dog comes to you.
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Dog Training: The Right Type Of Communication Needed For Dog Training Success
Dog Training: The Right Type Of Communication Needed For Dog Training Success
The most crucial factor that can spell the difference between success and failure in training your dog is attitude – both yours and your dog’s. While your family dog may have some pretty serious difficulties, your dog’s right attitude toward training will help overcome even his most intolerable behavior. However, control of your dog’s attitude rests entirely with you!
You need to mold your dog into the family member you want him to be – where obedience and instant response will allow a relationship for you and your pet that is free from stress and frustration.
This article will deal only with training dogs between six months of age and older. There is a difference in training techniques when teaching a dog below the age of six months, and that age group will require methods specifically intended for puppies.
Teaching a six-month-old dog with kindergarten methods would be an insult to his intelligence, much like a college student would be offended if his instructor talked to him using child-like teaching techniques. Similarly, a six-year-old child would achieve nothing sitting in a classroom listening to a professor explaining the theory of relativity.
Setting Positive Attitudes While Training Your Dog
If your dog’s training periods each day consist of nothing but commands, I can assure you that a negative attitude will develop from your pet. His daily routine is now being changed to include training sessions. It is up to you, his owner, to make these training periods something that your dog will enthusiastically look forward to.
You can achieve this simply by communicating verbally with the dog during training periods. Here lies another key that will spell the difference between mediocre and excellent performance from your dog. By communicating verbally doesn’t mean the usual “Heel” and “Sit” commands. Literally talk to your dog. Say something like “Good Boy….. You’re doing a great job… Come on boy, you can do it…etc.”
Although your dog has no idea what you are saying, two things are actually taking place while you’re talking to him. First, your enthusiastic and warm tone of voice reflects your positive attitude and motivates your dog into doing a great job in order to please you.
Second, this motivation then triggers a positive attitude in your dog. Commands, on the other hand, should be given in a completely different tone of voice. They should, in fact, sound like commands, and not requests. They are then followed by enthusiastic and loving praise as soon as the dog follows the command or when shown what his correct response should have been.
Keep in mind that the most important key to the success of your dog’s training is communication. Talk to him, reflect your positive attitude in the tone of your voice and your dog will reflect his positive attitude in the excited way he welcomes each day’s training session.
The most crucial factor that can spell the difference between success and failure in training your dog is attitude – both yours and your dog’s. While your family dog may have some pretty serious difficulties, your dog’s right attitude toward training will help overcome even his most intolerable behavior. However, control of your dog’s attitude rests entirely with you!
You need to mold your dog into the family member you want him to be – where obedience and instant response will allow a relationship for you and your pet that is free from stress and frustration.
This article will deal only with training dogs between six months of age and older. There is a difference in training techniques when teaching a dog below the age of six months, and that age group will require methods specifically intended for puppies.
Teaching a six-month-old dog with kindergarten methods would be an insult to his intelligence, much like a college student would be offended if his instructor talked to him using child-like teaching techniques. Similarly, a six-year-old child would achieve nothing sitting in a classroom listening to a professor explaining the theory of relativity.
Setting Positive Attitudes While Training Your Dog
If your dog’s training periods each day consist of nothing but commands, I can assure you that a negative attitude will develop from your pet. His daily routine is now being changed to include training sessions. It is up to you, his owner, to make these training periods something that your dog will enthusiastically look forward to.
You can achieve this simply by communicating verbally with the dog during training periods. Here lies another key that will spell the difference between mediocre and excellent performance from your dog. By communicating verbally doesn’t mean the usual “Heel” and “Sit” commands. Literally talk to your dog. Say something like “Good Boy….. You’re doing a great job… Come on boy, you can do it…etc.”
Although your dog has no idea what you are saying, two things are actually taking place while you’re talking to him. First, your enthusiastic and warm tone of voice reflects your positive attitude and motivates your dog into doing a great job in order to please you.
Second, this motivation then triggers a positive attitude in your dog. Commands, on the other hand, should be given in a completely different tone of voice. They should, in fact, sound like commands, and not requests. They are then followed by enthusiastic and loving praise as soon as the dog follows the command or when shown what his correct response should have been.
Keep in mind that the most important key to the success of your dog’s training is communication. Talk to him, reflect your positive attitude in the tone of your voice and your dog will reflect his positive attitude in the excited way he welcomes each day’s training session.
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Dog Training:Getting Your Dogs Attention (3)
Dog Training: Getting Your Dog’s Attention (Part 3)
On the fourth day, as you repeat the procedures of the first three days, you’ll discover that there’s no more opposition and no games. This is simple enough, unless your dog happens to become momentarily distracted and forgetful.
And that is just exactly what you want to happen, so that he will learn to overcome momentary temptation and distraction and keep his attention focused on you. After all, obedience is needed particularly in time of emergency, and since you are going to build obedience as well as character into your dog, it is not too much to ask, that, at a time when other dogs would yield to distraction and temptation, your dog has his attention totally focused on you.
Your job from day four until your pet learns to ignore temptation is to use distraction and temptation during your fifteen-minute training sessions. The procedures will be nearly the same as the first three days, except that you will walk in the direction of the distraction or temptation and hope that your dog will rush recklessly toward it.
You will of course have chosen that precise moment to wish him goodbye on his journey, turn, and walk fast in the opposite direction. And, as you may expect, his journey will be short (fifteen to twenty feet) before he turns around and walks toward you. Your dog will not hate you for having to turn around because he won’t associate his abrupt change of direction with you at all.
What Your Dog Will Know For Sure
The last four days have shown him that you will move whenever you choose, and in whatever direction you choose without first checking to see if it’s alright with him. Your dog knew this. What happened was his fault because he took his attention and eyes off you for a moment and gave in to temptation. It was just “coincidental” that you decided to move, at that same moment, and in the direction opposite to that in which he was heading.
You know that the move wasn’t really a coincidence, but your dog doesn’t know this, and will never know. What he will come to realize is that when a distraction or temptation appears, that is the exact moment that you will choose to reverse your direction of travel.
If you do your work well for the next few days, your dog will come to consider every temptation or distraction as a reminder and a cue to keep his eyes and attention on you. Distractions and temptations include people and things such as a skateboarder, a strange cat, another dog, a rolling ball, or a plate of food.
The list can go on and on, depending on your dog’s personality. However, to have someone call your dog by name in an attempt to distract him must be considered unfair. You must stick to other situations and things.
In Conclusion
To conclude this part of training, remember to always walk briskly in a straight line, with confidence in your movement. If you hesitate or walk slow, your dog will not develop the necessary confidence. Never give your dog verbal commands when working with him on the long-line. You’re not teaching him to heel yet.
For now, you’re teaching him four things. First, when tied to a person, he must move with that person. Second, your determination, will, and status are such that you will walk anywhere and at any time without first checking to see if it’s alright with him. Third, in order for him to be aware of your movement, and in which direction you’ll be walking, he needs to pay attention to you because you won’t let him know in advance. Fourth, when distraction or temptation appears, they are not excuses to be inattentive. On the contrary, that is when he must be the more attentive and focused on you.
On the fourth day, as you repeat the procedures of the first three days, you’ll discover that there’s no more opposition and no games. This is simple enough, unless your dog happens to become momentarily distracted and forgetful.
And that is just exactly what you want to happen, so that he will learn to overcome momentary temptation and distraction and keep his attention focused on you. After all, obedience is needed particularly in time of emergency, and since you are going to build obedience as well as character into your dog, it is not too much to ask, that, at a time when other dogs would yield to distraction and temptation, your dog has his attention totally focused on you.
Your job from day four until your pet learns to ignore temptation is to use distraction and temptation during your fifteen-minute training sessions. The procedures will be nearly the same as the first three days, except that you will walk in the direction of the distraction or temptation and hope that your dog will rush recklessly toward it.
You will of course have chosen that precise moment to wish him goodbye on his journey, turn, and walk fast in the opposite direction. And, as you may expect, his journey will be short (fifteen to twenty feet) before he turns around and walks toward you. Your dog will not hate you for having to turn around because he won’t associate his abrupt change of direction with you at all.
What Your Dog Will Know For Sure
The last four days have shown him that you will move whenever you choose, and in whatever direction you choose without first checking to see if it’s alright with him. Your dog knew this. What happened was his fault because he took his attention and eyes off you for a moment and gave in to temptation. It was just “coincidental” that you decided to move, at that same moment, and in the direction opposite to that in which he was heading.
You know that the move wasn’t really a coincidence, but your dog doesn’t know this, and will never know. What he will come to realize is that when a distraction or temptation appears, that is the exact moment that you will choose to reverse your direction of travel.
If you do your work well for the next few days, your dog will come to consider every temptation or distraction as a reminder and a cue to keep his eyes and attention on you. Distractions and temptations include people and things such as a skateboarder, a strange cat, another dog, a rolling ball, or a plate of food.
The list can go on and on, depending on your dog’s personality. However, to have someone call your dog by name in an attempt to distract him must be considered unfair. You must stick to other situations and things.
In Conclusion
To conclude this part of training, remember to always walk briskly in a straight line, with confidence in your movement. If you hesitate or walk slow, your dog will not develop the necessary confidence. Never give your dog verbal commands when working with him on the long-line. You’re not teaching him to heel yet.
For now, you’re teaching him four things. First, when tied to a person, he must move with that person. Second, your determination, will, and status are such that you will walk anywhere and at any time without first checking to see if it’s alright with him. Third, in order for him to be aware of your movement, and in which direction you’ll be walking, he needs to pay attention to you because you won’t let him know in advance. Fourth, when distraction or temptation appears, they are not excuses to be inattentive. On the contrary, that is when he must be the more attentive and focused on you.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Dog Training:Getting Your Dog's Attention (2)
Dog Training: Getting Your Dog’s Attention (Part 2)
Welcome to the second part of training your dog to "pay attention". Continue with the same protocol and after fifteen minutes, get down on one knee to your dog’s level and untie the long-line from his collar, but don’t remove the collar yet.
Just take a few moments to tell your dog what a great job he’s doing. Give him a good pet on the head and talk to him in enthusiastic tone of voice. A good praise and a pat on the dog's head are all you need at this time to help shape his attitude for the next lessons that will follow.
Time For A Break
When you have finished your few minutes of praise, casually remove the training collar and give your dog a little privacy to take a break and think things over. Do not leave the training collar on your dog when he’s unattended because the ring can snag objects and cause strangulation.
Your first fifteen minutes of training may have seemed unremarkable to you. However, if you followed the instructions accurately, your dog began to realize that when he’s tied to you, he must move with you. If he failed to learn that on your first day, you can be sure that he’ll learn it, and more, by the fourth day, since it takes the average dog four days to learn an average thing.
At the same time, your dog is going to learn something else that is equally important. He is going to learn that you have the ability to use sound judgment as well as demonstrating a will that’s much stronger than his. Confidence and respect in your actions will begin to grow.
Day 2
Your second day of training should be same as the first day, except for the direction of your pattern. From your starting point the pattern could be the reverse of the day before, so that your dog will not know ahead of time which direction you intend to take.
Depending on your particular dog, you may or may not have struggles on your second day. If you do, handle it as you did the first day. Ignore all distractions and just walk!
Day 3
On the third day of training, even the most stubborn and uncooperative dog will begin to realize that nothing he does is going to deter your from going in the direction you want to go, and when you want to go. He will also realize that the line of least resistance is to follow you.
You will also notice, as you repeat the procedures of the first two days, that your dog will be watching you just a bit more closely. He is learning that he must move with his owner when on a leash. He has learned that you won’t direct him of your intentions. And since he must move with you, there’s only one way he’ll be able to be aware of your movements, and that is to pay attention to you.
Welcome to the second part of training your dog to "pay attention". Continue with the same protocol and after fifteen minutes, get down on one knee to your dog’s level and untie the long-line from his collar, but don’t remove the collar yet.
Just take a few moments to tell your dog what a great job he’s doing. Give him a good pet on the head and talk to him in enthusiastic tone of voice. A good praise and a pat on the dog's head are all you need at this time to help shape his attitude for the next lessons that will follow.
Time For A Break
When you have finished your few minutes of praise, casually remove the training collar and give your dog a little privacy to take a break and think things over. Do not leave the training collar on your dog when he’s unattended because the ring can snag objects and cause strangulation.
Your first fifteen minutes of training may have seemed unremarkable to you. However, if you followed the instructions accurately, your dog began to realize that when he’s tied to you, he must move with you. If he failed to learn that on your first day, you can be sure that he’ll learn it, and more, by the fourth day, since it takes the average dog four days to learn an average thing.
At the same time, your dog is going to learn something else that is equally important. He is going to learn that you have the ability to use sound judgment as well as demonstrating a will that’s much stronger than his. Confidence and respect in your actions will begin to grow.
Day 2
Your second day of training should be same as the first day, except for the direction of your pattern. From your starting point the pattern could be the reverse of the day before, so that your dog will not know ahead of time which direction you intend to take.
Depending on your particular dog, you may or may not have struggles on your second day. If you do, handle it as you did the first day. Ignore all distractions and just walk!
Day 3
On the third day of training, even the most stubborn and uncooperative dog will begin to realize that nothing he does is going to deter your from going in the direction you want to go, and when you want to go. He will also realize that the line of least resistance is to follow you.
You will also notice, as you repeat the procedures of the first two days, that your dog will be watching you just a bit more closely. He is learning that he must move with his owner when on a leash. He has learned that you won’t direct him of your intentions. And since he must move with you, there’s only one way he’ll be able to be aware of your movements, and that is to pay attention to you.
Monday, January 26, 2009
Dog Training:Getting Your Dogs Attention (1)
Dog Training: Getting Your Dog’s Attention (Part 1)
In today's article about the first week of training your dog, we are going to apply a basic method that was originated by Mr. William Koehler, a respected animal trainer. His first week's long-line method (slightly changed here) should be highly praised as one of the greatest innovations in canine training.
Regardless of how basic and unpromising these first-week steps may seem, follow them carefully and exactly, and you will have a more obedient dog, one that will learn easier and faster.
Let The Training Begin
On your first day of training, take your dog to the backyard, the sidewalk, or the park (only if it provides little to no distractions). Put the training collar on your dog, making sure that it’s fitted correctly. Tie one end of the long-line to the free ring. Holding the other end of the long-line in your hands, pick a spot at a distance of about thirty to forty-five feet. It could be a tin can, a fire hydrant, or a particular patch of grass. Walk fast in a straight line to that spot. Determine to let nothing stand in your way, especially your dog and his tricks.
If yours is the type of dog who has had no form of total control placed over him, you can bet there’ll be tricks. He may start wailing, which means that he would prefer to go in some other direction and you are not cooperating.
He might roll over on his back and place all four feet in the air trying to hook a claw in the sky, which means he doesn’t particularly want to walk with you because you’re not going to the direction he wants. He may even try to rest directly in front of you which simply means that you forgot to ask his permission to walk, and he’d prefer that you stand still until he’s make up his mind.
In training your dog, you need to keep one thing perfectly clear in mind so that it will also be clear in the mind of your dog: You are training your dog, not the other way around.
Regardless of his tricks, and with the end of the long-line held firmly in your hand, go to the destination that you’ve chosen. As Mr. Koehler expresses “Your dog will go with you if for no other reason than to be near you”.
That first sixty seconds of training (the time it takes you to walk thirty to forty-five feet) may indeed be a test of wills. It is crucial that your dog develop assurance that you will win this test of wills. He will develop this assurance if he knows that you will go from point A to point B without considering his resistance.
By the time you reach your predetermined location, the learning processes will have already been triggered within the mind of your dog, so simply stand there for about forty-five seconds to a minute. Look around and observe everything around you except your pet. Do not even look at him. Doing so just might possibly get you hopelessly entangled in an emotional struggle.
When your forty-five seconds to one minute is up, pick another spot at about the same distance and, without warning or tugging on the leash to get your dog’s attention, walk at a brisk pace right to it. Again, do not let your dog stand in your way. If you have to clear your throat or in some other way try to catch your dog’s attention before moving, then your dog is doing a great job of training you.
Don’t ask your dog’s permission to walk and just go! When you reached your spot, pause again for about forty-five seconds to observe your surroundings – but not your dog. Again, pick a location and, without any warning, walk to it at a brisk pace. Continue this process for the full fifteen-minute training session.
In today's article about the first week of training your dog, we are going to apply a basic method that was originated by Mr. William Koehler, a respected animal trainer. His first week's long-line method (slightly changed here) should be highly praised as one of the greatest innovations in canine training.
Regardless of how basic and unpromising these first-week steps may seem, follow them carefully and exactly, and you will have a more obedient dog, one that will learn easier and faster.
Let The Training Begin
On your first day of training, take your dog to the backyard, the sidewalk, or the park (only if it provides little to no distractions). Put the training collar on your dog, making sure that it’s fitted correctly. Tie one end of the long-line to the free ring. Holding the other end of the long-line in your hands, pick a spot at a distance of about thirty to forty-five feet. It could be a tin can, a fire hydrant, or a particular patch of grass. Walk fast in a straight line to that spot. Determine to let nothing stand in your way, especially your dog and his tricks.
If yours is the type of dog who has had no form of total control placed over him, you can bet there’ll be tricks. He may start wailing, which means that he would prefer to go in some other direction and you are not cooperating.
He might roll over on his back and place all four feet in the air trying to hook a claw in the sky, which means he doesn’t particularly want to walk with you because you’re not going to the direction he wants. He may even try to rest directly in front of you which simply means that you forgot to ask his permission to walk, and he’d prefer that you stand still until he’s make up his mind.
In training your dog, you need to keep one thing perfectly clear in mind so that it will also be clear in the mind of your dog: You are training your dog, not the other way around.
Regardless of his tricks, and with the end of the long-line held firmly in your hand, go to the destination that you’ve chosen. As Mr. Koehler expresses “Your dog will go with you if for no other reason than to be near you”.
That first sixty seconds of training (the time it takes you to walk thirty to forty-five feet) may indeed be a test of wills. It is crucial that your dog develop assurance that you will win this test of wills. He will develop this assurance if he knows that you will go from point A to point B without considering his resistance.
By the time you reach your predetermined location, the learning processes will have already been triggered within the mind of your dog, so simply stand there for about forty-five seconds to a minute. Look around and observe everything around you except your pet. Do not even look at him. Doing so just might possibly get you hopelessly entangled in an emotional struggle.
When your forty-five seconds to one minute is up, pick another spot at about the same distance and, without warning or tugging on the leash to get your dog’s attention, walk at a brisk pace right to it. Again, do not let your dog stand in your way. If you have to clear your throat or in some other way try to catch your dog’s attention before moving, then your dog is doing a great job of training you.
Don’t ask your dog’s permission to walk and just go! When you reached your spot, pause again for about forty-five seconds to observe your surroundings – but not your dog. Again, pick a location and, without any warning, walk to it at a brisk pace. Continue this process for the full fifteen-minute training session.
Friday, January 23, 2009
German Shepherd Dog
German Shepherd Dog Breed
The German Shepherd is currently listed as the third most popular dog breed registered with the AKC. This dog resembles that of its ancestor, the Wolf, and was originally bred to be the ideal hurting Shepherd and guard dog.
Although this breed went through several name changes during World War I, mainly due to its German heritage, it was officially renamed the German Shepherd and recognized by the AKC in 1931. And while its popularity ranking is down just a bit, it has been a top choice as a family companion for generations.
German Shepherds score very high in terms of protection ability, watchdog status, and training adaptability. Although playfulness and affection does not rank as high as other dog breeds, the German Shepherd is actually a perfect choice for a family pet.
This dog is extremely protective of its home, as well as members of the family. He is considered aloof and a bit suspicious towards strange people and other animals. However, they can be tamed and gentle around children and other house pets.
Upkeep And Maintenance
As far as upkeep is concerned, German Shepherds need mental and physical challenges on a daily basis. With the ability to learn new tricks and obedience lessons, this dog is extremely intelligent. Physical activity must also be a part of this dog's daily life. Long walks and running outside is ideal.
Health Information
What it comes to health issues, there are two concerns that you need to know about: CHD and elbow dysplasia. Minor health concerns which occasionally strike the German Shepherd are skin allergies, hemangiosarcoma, malignant neoplasms, cataracts, elbow dysplasia, degenerative myelopathy, gastric torsion, and hot spots.
The lifespan of the average healthy German Shepherd is anywhere between 10 and 12 years. This is based on a dog who remains healthy and is active throughout its lifetime. Specific health tests suggested by veterinarians for German Shepherds are elbow dysplasia and hip dysplasia.
The German Shepherd is currently listed as the third most popular dog breed registered with the AKC. This dog resembles that of its ancestor, the Wolf, and was originally bred to be the ideal hurting Shepherd and guard dog.
Although this breed went through several name changes during World War I, mainly due to its German heritage, it was officially renamed the German Shepherd and recognized by the AKC in 1931. And while its popularity ranking is down just a bit, it has been a top choice as a family companion for generations.
German Shepherds score very high in terms of protection ability, watchdog status, and training adaptability. Although playfulness and affection does not rank as high as other dog breeds, the German Shepherd is actually a perfect choice for a family pet.
This dog is extremely protective of its home, as well as members of the family. He is considered aloof and a bit suspicious towards strange people and other animals. However, they can be tamed and gentle around children and other house pets.
Upkeep And Maintenance
As far as upkeep is concerned, German Shepherds need mental and physical challenges on a daily basis. With the ability to learn new tricks and obedience lessons, this dog is extremely intelligent. Physical activity must also be a part of this dog's daily life. Long walks and running outside is ideal.
Health Information
What it comes to health issues, there are two concerns that you need to know about: CHD and elbow dysplasia. Minor health concerns which occasionally strike the German Shepherd are skin allergies, hemangiosarcoma, malignant neoplasms, cataracts, elbow dysplasia, degenerative myelopathy, gastric torsion, and hot spots.
The lifespan of the average healthy German Shepherd is anywhere between 10 and 12 years. This is based on a dog who remains healthy and is active throughout its lifetime. Specific health tests suggested by veterinarians for German Shepherds are elbow dysplasia and hip dysplasia.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Dog Training:Correct Heel Methods (6)
Dog Training: Correct Heel Methods (6)
Now it’s time to find out if your dog has truly learned how to heel and execute an automatic sit.
Give him the command “Heel” and make any necessary corrections for poor heeling or lack of attentiveness to bring him up to the proper mental level of awareness. Come to a stop and command “Sit”. Watch your dog do it all by himself. Get down to his level and praise him enthusiastically.
For the stubborn or uncooperative dog who would rather be helped for the rest of his life, you’ll be surprised to see that he is going to graduate from being spoon-fed whether he wants to or not.
How do you do this? When you come to a stop and command “Sit”, silently count to three. If your dog is not seated by the time you get to three, place both hands on the leash, making sure that there’s a little slack in it, and jerk straight up! Your dog will immediately sit if you make the correction strongly enough. Don’t forget the praise when you’re done.
If he still refuses to sit after the initial correction, consider that correction ineffective. An ineffective correction is inhumane because it means that you will have to keep doing it. This is unfair to your pet and will only create resistance. If you simply tighten the collar around his neck by pulling up slowly on the leash, the only thing you can accomplish is constriction of your dog’s breathing, and you have caused your dog’s training collar to turn into a choking chain.
This is your fault, not his, and he is going to wonder why you have suddenly decided to choke him. So, in all fairness to your dog, make a humane correction by an emphatic and upward jerk of the leash using both hands. Make the correction properly the first time, and chances are you will not have to make it again. Remember to follow the correction with loving praise the moment your dog has responded correctly.
The heel and sit combinations should be continued for one week, after which time you will notice that it’s no longer necessary for you to command “Sit” every time you stop. Your dog will realize that this is what is expected when he is out on a walk and you suddenly come to a stop.
At the end of a week, you can begin dropping the command “Sit” since he will be doing it automatically anyway. Be sure, however, that anytime he fails to sit, make the correction immediately, followed by praise.
Congratulations!
Now you have the proper tools to teach your dog to walk beside you and to sit automatically at your side each time you stop. Why is this crucial? In addition to getting your dog’s attention, which is necessary in order to take him to more advanced levels of training, it will make all the difference in the world when you take him for a walk down a busy street or a crowded place.
Should you stop to talk to someone, your dog is trained to sit at your side patiently, rather than jumping on the person you’re talking to or wrapping the leash around your legs and making a nuisance of himself.
Now it’s time to find out if your dog has truly learned how to heel and execute an automatic sit.
Give him the command “Heel” and make any necessary corrections for poor heeling or lack of attentiveness to bring him up to the proper mental level of awareness. Come to a stop and command “Sit”. Watch your dog do it all by himself. Get down to his level and praise him enthusiastically.
For the stubborn or uncooperative dog who would rather be helped for the rest of his life, you’ll be surprised to see that he is going to graduate from being spoon-fed whether he wants to or not.
How do you do this? When you come to a stop and command “Sit”, silently count to three. If your dog is not seated by the time you get to three, place both hands on the leash, making sure that there’s a little slack in it, and jerk straight up! Your dog will immediately sit if you make the correction strongly enough. Don’t forget the praise when you’re done.
If he still refuses to sit after the initial correction, consider that correction ineffective. An ineffective correction is inhumane because it means that you will have to keep doing it. This is unfair to your pet and will only create resistance. If you simply tighten the collar around his neck by pulling up slowly on the leash, the only thing you can accomplish is constriction of your dog’s breathing, and you have caused your dog’s training collar to turn into a choking chain.
This is your fault, not his, and he is going to wonder why you have suddenly decided to choke him. So, in all fairness to your dog, make a humane correction by an emphatic and upward jerk of the leash using both hands. Make the correction properly the first time, and chances are you will not have to make it again. Remember to follow the correction with loving praise the moment your dog has responded correctly.
The heel and sit combinations should be continued for one week, after which time you will notice that it’s no longer necessary for you to command “Sit” every time you stop. Your dog will realize that this is what is expected when he is out on a walk and you suddenly come to a stop.
At the end of a week, you can begin dropping the command “Sit” since he will be doing it automatically anyway. Be sure, however, that anytime he fails to sit, make the correction immediately, followed by praise.
Congratulations!
Now you have the proper tools to teach your dog to walk beside you and to sit automatically at your side each time you stop. Why is this crucial? In addition to getting your dog’s attention, which is necessary in order to take him to more advanced levels of training, it will make all the difference in the world when you take him for a walk down a busy street or a crowded place.
Should you stop to talk to someone, your dog is trained to sit at your side patiently, rather than jumping on the person you’re talking to or wrapping the leash around your legs and making a nuisance of himself.
Monday, January 12, 2009
Dog Breed Training Groups
Dog Breed Training Groups - Investigate Each Group Thoroughly Before Signing Up
There are hundreds of dog training books that can be found in libraries, bookstores, and on the Internet. Most of them are just fine and teach thorough, positive training methods. But I have yet to see any of them that make a point of stressing the fact that dogs are living, breathing beings that have emotions, feelings, and unique personalities.
You can have two Labrador Retrievers that, emotionally, may be as different between each each as a Rottweiler would be to a Pomeranian. The training protocol and corrections for one dog may not be necessarily suited to the character and personality of the other.
A suitable training correction for a dog that has an outgoing personality and is on the stubborn side may cause trauma to a dog that is naturally sensitive and cannot emotionally handle such dog training tactics, even if both dogs are the exact same breed.
Professional Obedience & Dog Breed Clubs
You'll find many clubs devoted to specific breeds and training groups all around the country. They are considered to be the most reliable and educated people to go to for training and specific breed information. For the vast majority of information, this is probably true, but some are are also guilty at assuming all dogs of the same breed should be trained and treated in the exact same manner.
The blame should rest upon whomever is running the group. However, choosing this leader is typically nothing more than a personality contest instead of their education and training history with canines. Criterion for the selection usually boils down to whomever is the most persuasive speaker, has had the longest membership, or even how bad the person wants the job.
There was one group who selected the lead trainer and spokesperson solely based on the fact that she had the best working dog the year before. There ware no requirements about success in the dog training area.
Another group had a specific opening for just "trainer" and the only requirement was that they had to have worked their own dog up to receive the Companion Dog Title. What training methods that person used, or whether or not it was positive or aggressive, had no bearing on the position. Pretty important stuff if you ask me, right?
Investigate Before Allowing Your Dog To Be Trained By Such A Group
If you are considering paying for dog training lessons with a specific group, even if the group is nationally recognized, asked the same questions you would from any dog trainer:
1. What are his or her references?
2. How many dogs have the trained?
3. Where did they get their knowledge and training advice from?
4. Do they admit that no 2 dogs are alike, even from the same breed type?
5. Do they use harsh training methods?
There are hundreds of dog training books that can be found in libraries, bookstores, and on the Internet. Most of them are just fine and teach thorough, positive training methods. But I have yet to see any of them that make a point of stressing the fact that dogs are living, breathing beings that have emotions, feelings, and unique personalities.
You can have two Labrador Retrievers that, emotionally, may be as different between each each as a Rottweiler would be to a Pomeranian. The training protocol and corrections for one dog may not be necessarily suited to the character and personality of the other.
A suitable training correction for a dog that has an outgoing personality and is on the stubborn side may cause trauma to a dog that is naturally sensitive and cannot emotionally handle such dog training tactics, even if both dogs are the exact same breed.
Professional Obedience & Dog Breed Clubs
You'll find many clubs devoted to specific breeds and training groups all around the country. They are considered to be the most reliable and educated people to go to for training and specific breed information. For the vast majority of information, this is probably true, but some are are also guilty at assuming all dogs of the same breed should be trained and treated in the exact same manner.
The blame should rest upon whomever is running the group. However, choosing this leader is typically nothing more than a personality contest instead of their education and training history with canines. Criterion for the selection usually boils down to whomever is the most persuasive speaker, has had the longest membership, or even how bad the person wants the job.
There was one group who selected the lead trainer and spokesperson solely based on the fact that she had the best working dog the year before. There ware no requirements about success in the dog training area.
Another group had a specific opening for just "trainer" and the only requirement was that they had to have worked their own dog up to receive the Companion Dog Title. What training methods that person used, or whether or not it was positive or aggressive, had no bearing on the position. Pretty important stuff if you ask me, right?
Investigate Before Allowing Your Dog To Be Trained By Such A Group
If you are considering paying for dog training lessons with a specific group, even if the group is nationally recognized, asked the same questions you would from any dog trainer:
1. What are his or her references?
2. How many dogs have the trained?
3. Where did they get their knowledge and training advice from?
4. Do they admit that no 2 dogs are alike, even from the same breed type?
5. Do they use harsh training methods?
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