Dog Training: The Right Type Of Communication Needed For Dog Training Success
The most crucial factor that can spell the difference between success and failure in training your dog is attitude – both yours and your dog’s. While your family dog may have some pretty serious difficulties, your dog’s right attitude toward training will help overcome even his most intolerable behavior. However, control of your dog’s attitude rests entirely with you!
You need to mold your dog into the family member you want him to be – where obedience and instant response will allow a relationship for you and your pet that is free from stress and frustration.
This article will deal only with training dogs between six months of age and older. There is a difference in training techniques when teaching a dog below the age of six months, and that age group will require methods specifically intended for puppies.
Teaching a six-month-old dog with kindergarten methods would be an insult to his intelligence, much like a college student would be offended if his instructor talked to him using child-like teaching techniques. Similarly, a six-year-old child would achieve nothing sitting in a classroom listening to a professor explaining the theory of relativity.
Setting Positive Attitudes While Training Your Dog
If your dog’s training periods each day consist of nothing but commands, I can assure you that a negative attitude will develop from your pet. His daily routine is now being changed to include training sessions. It is up to you, his owner, to make these training periods something that your dog will enthusiastically look forward to.
You can achieve this simply by communicating verbally with the dog during training periods. Here lies another key that will spell the difference between mediocre and excellent performance from your dog. By communicating verbally doesn’t mean the usual “Heel” and “Sit” commands. Literally talk to your dog. Say something like “Good Boy….. You’re doing a great job… Come on boy, you can do it…etc.”
Although your dog has no idea what you are saying, two things are actually taking place while you’re talking to him. First, your enthusiastic and warm tone of voice reflects your positive attitude and motivates your dog into doing a great job in order to please you.
Second, this motivation then triggers a positive attitude in your dog. Commands, on the other hand, should be given in a completely different tone of voice. They should, in fact, sound like commands, and not requests. They are then followed by enthusiastic and loving praise as soon as the dog follows the command or when shown what his correct response should have been.
Keep in mind that the most important key to the success of your dog’s training is communication. Talk to him, reflect your positive attitude in the tone of your voice and your dog will reflect his positive attitude in the excited way he welcomes each day’s training session.
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Dog Training:Getting Your Dogs Attention (3)
Dog Training: Getting Your Dog’s Attention (Part 3)
On the fourth day, as you repeat the procedures of the first three days, you’ll discover that there’s no more opposition and no games. This is simple enough, unless your dog happens to become momentarily distracted and forgetful.
And that is just exactly what you want to happen, so that he will learn to overcome momentary temptation and distraction and keep his attention focused on you. After all, obedience is needed particularly in time of emergency, and since you are going to build obedience as well as character into your dog, it is not too much to ask, that, at a time when other dogs would yield to distraction and temptation, your dog has his attention totally focused on you.
Your job from day four until your pet learns to ignore temptation is to use distraction and temptation during your fifteen-minute training sessions. The procedures will be nearly the same as the first three days, except that you will walk in the direction of the distraction or temptation and hope that your dog will rush recklessly toward it.
You will of course have chosen that precise moment to wish him goodbye on his journey, turn, and walk fast in the opposite direction. And, as you may expect, his journey will be short (fifteen to twenty feet) before he turns around and walks toward you. Your dog will not hate you for having to turn around because he won’t associate his abrupt change of direction with you at all.
What Your Dog Will Know For Sure
The last four days have shown him that you will move whenever you choose, and in whatever direction you choose without first checking to see if it’s alright with him. Your dog knew this. What happened was his fault because he took his attention and eyes off you for a moment and gave in to temptation. It was just “coincidental” that you decided to move, at that same moment, and in the direction opposite to that in which he was heading.
You know that the move wasn’t really a coincidence, but your dog doesn’t know this, and will never know. What he will come to realize is that when a distraction or temptation appears, that is the exact moment that you will choose to reverse your direction of travel.
If you do your work well for the next few days, your dog will come to consider every temptation or distraction as a reminder and a cue to keep his eyes and attention on you. Distractions and temptations include people and things such as a skateboarder, a strange cat, another dog, a rolling ball, or a plate of food.
The list can go on and on, depending on your dog’s personality. However, to have someone call your dog by name in an attempt to distract him must be considered unfair. You must stick to other situations and things.
In Conclusion
To conclude this part of training, remember to always walk briskly in a straight line, with confidence in your movement. If you hesitate or walk slow, your dog will not develop the necessary confidence. Never give your dog verbal commands when working with him on the long-line. You’re not teaching him to heel yet.
For now, you’re teaching him four things. First, when tied to a person, he must move with that person. Second, your determination, will, and status are such that you will walk anywhere and at any time without first checking to see if it’s alright with him. Third, in order for him to be aware of your movement, and in which direction you’ll be walking, he needs to pay attention to you because you won’t let him know in advance. Fourth, when distraction or temptation appears, they are not excuses to be inattentive. On the contrary, that is when he must be the more attentive and focused on you.
On the fourth day, as you repeat the procedures of the first three days, you’ll discover that there’s no more opposition and no games. This is simple enough, unless your dog happens to become momentarily distracted and forgetful.
And that is just exactly what you want to happen, so that he will learn to overcome momentary temptation and distraction and keep his attention focused on you. After all, obedience is needed particularly in time of emergency, and since you are going to build obedience as well as character into your dog, it is not too much to ask, that, at a time when other dogs would yield to distraction and temptation, your dog has his attention totally focused on you.
Your job from day four until your pet learns to ignore temptation is to use distraction and temptation during your fifteen-minute training sessions. The procedures will be nearly the same as the first three days, except that you will walk in the direction of the distraction or temptation and hope that your dog will rush recklessly toward it.
You will of course have chosen that precise moment to wish him goodbye on his journey, turn, and walk fast in the opposite direction. And, as you may expect, his journey will be short (fifteen to twenty feet) before he turns around and walks toward you. Your dog will not hate you for having to turn around because he won’t associate his abrupt change of direction with you at all.
What Your Dog Will Know For Sure
The last four days have shown him that you will move whenever you choose, and in whatever direction you choose without first checking to see if it’s alright with him. Your dog knew this. What happened was his fault because he took his attention and eyes off you for a moment and gave in to temptation. It was just “coincidental” that you decided to move, at that same moment, and in the direction opposite to that in which he was heading.
You know that the move wasn’t really a coincidence, but your dog doesn’t know this, and will never know. What he will come to realize is that when a distraction or temptation appears, that is the exact moment that you will choose to reverse your direction of travel.
If you do your work well for the next few days, your dog will come to consider every temptation or distraction as a reminder and a cue to keep his eyes and attention on you. Distractions and temptations include people and things such as a skateboarder, a strange cat, another dog, a rolling ball, or a plate of food.
The list can go on and on, depending on your dog’s personality. However, to have someone call your dog by name in an attempt to distract him must be considered unfair. You must stick to other situations and things.
In Conclusion
To conclude this part of training, remember to always walk briskly in a straight line, with confidence in your movement. If you hesitate or walk slow, your dog will not develop the necessary confidence. Never give your dog verbal commands when working with him on the long-line. You’re not teaching him to heel yet.
For now, you’re teaching him four things. First, when tied to a person, he must move with that person. Second, your determination, will, and status are such that you will walk anywhere and at any time without first checking to see if it’s alright with him. Third, in order for him to be aware of your movement, and in which direction you’ll be walking, he needs to pay attention to you because you won’t let him know in advance. Fourth, when distraction or temptation appears, they are not excuses to be inattentive. On the contrary, that is when he must be the more attentive and focused on you.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Dog Training:Getting Your Dog's Attention (2)
Dog Training: Getting Your Dog’s Attention (Part 2)
Welcome to the second part of training your dog to "pay attention". Continue with the same protocol and after fifteen minutes, get down on one knee to your dog’s level and untie the long-line from his collar, but don’t remove the collar yet.
Just take a few moments to tell your dog what a great job he’s doing. Give him a good pet on the head and talk to him in enthusiastic tone of voice. A good praise and a pat on the dog's head are all you need at this time to help shape his attitude for the next lessons that will follow.
Time For A Break
When you have finished your few minutes of praise, casually remove the training collar and give your dog a little privacy to take a break and think things over. Do not leave the training collar on your dog when he’s unattended because the ring can snag objects and cause strangulation.
Your first fifteen minutes of training may have seemed unremarkable to you. However, if you followed the instructions accurately, your dog began to realize that when he’s tied to you, he must move with you. If he failed to learn that on your first day, you can be sure that he’ll learn it, and more, by the fourth day, since it takes the average dog four days to learn an average thing.
At the same time, your dog is going to learn something else that is equally important. He is going to learn that you have the ability to use sound judgment as well as demonstrating a will that’s much stronger than his. Confidence and respect in your actions will begin to grow.
Day 2
Your second day of training should be same as the first day, except for the direction of your pattern. From your starting point the pattern could be the reverse of the day before, so that your dog will not know ahead of time which direction you intend to take.
Depending on your particular dog, you may or may not have struggles on your second day. If you do, handle it as you did the first day. Ignore all distractions and just walk!
Day 3
On the third day of training, even the most stubborn and uncooperative dog will begin to realize that nothing he does is going to deter your from going in the direction you want to go, and when you want to go. He will also realize that the line of least resistance is to follow you.
You will also notice, as you repeat the procedures of the first two days, that your dog will be watching you just a bit more closely. He is learning that he must move with his owner when on a leash. He has learned that you won’t direct him of your intentions. And since he must move with you, there’s only one way he’ll be able to be aware of your movements, and that is to pay attention to you.
Welcome to the second part of training your dog to "pay attention". Continue with the same protocol and after fifteen minutes, get down on one knee to your dog’s level and untie the long-line from his collar, but don’t remove the collar yet.
Just take a few moments to tell your dog what a great job he’s doing. Give him a good pet on the head and talk to him in enthusiastic tone of voice. A good praise and a pat on the dog's head are all you need at this time to help shape his attitude for the next lessons that will follow.
Time For A Break
When you have finished your few minutes of praise, casually remove the training collar and give your dog a little privacy to take a break and think things over. Do not leave the training collar on your dog when he’s unattended because the ring can snag objects and cause strangulation.
Your first fifteen minutes of training may have seemed unremarkable to you. However, if you followed the instructions accurately, your dog began to realize that when he’s tied to you, he must move with you. If he failed to learn that on your first day, you can be sure that he’ll learn it, and more, by the fourth day, since it takes the average dog four days to learn an average thing.
At the same time, your dog is going to learn something else that is equally important. He is going to learn that you have the ability to use sound judgment as well as demonstrating a will that’s much stronger than his. Confidence and respect in your actions will begin to grow.
Day 2
Your second day of training should be same as the first day, except for the direction of your pattern. From your starting point the pattern could be the reverse of the day before, so that your dog will not know ahead of time which direction you intend to take.
Depending on your particular dog, you may or may not have struggles on your second day. If you do, handle it as you did the first day. Ignore all distractions and just walk!
Day 3
On the third day of training, even the most stubborn and uncooperative dog will begin to realize that nothing he does is going to deter your from going in the direction you want to go, and when you want to go. He will also realize that the line of least resistance is to follow you.
You will also notice, as you repeat the procedures of the first two days, that your dog will be watching you just a bit more closely. He is learning that he must move with his owner when on a leash. He has learned that you won’t direct him of your intentions. And since he must move with you, there’s only one way he’ll be able to be aware of your movements, and that is to pay attention to you.
Monday, January 26, 2009
Dog Training:Getting Your Dogs Attention (1)
Dog Training: Getting Your Dog’s Attention (Part 1)
In today's article about the first week of training your dog, we are going to apply a basic method that was originated by Mr. William Koehler, a respected animal trainer. His first week's long-line method (slightly changed here) should be highly praised as one of the greatest innovations in canine training.
Regardless of how basic and unpromising these first-week steps may seem, follow them carefully and exactly, and you will have a more obedient dog, one that will learn easier and faster.
Let The Training Begin
On your first day of training, take your dog to the backyard, the sidewalk, or the park (only if it provides little to no distractions). Put the training collar on your dog, making sure that it’s fitted correctly. Tie one end of the long-line to the free ring. Holding the other end of the long-line in your hands, pick a spot at a distance of about thirty to forty-five feet. It could be a tin can, a fire hydrant, or a particular patch of grass. Walk fast in a straight line to that spot. Determine to let nothing stand in your way, especially your dog and his tricks.
If yours is the type of dog who has had no form of total control placed over him, you can bet there’ll be tricks. He may start wailing, which means that he would prefer to go in some other direction and you are not cooperating.
He might roll over on his back and place all four feet in the air trying to hook a claw in the sky, which means he doesn’t particularly want to walk with you because you’re not going to the direction he wants. He may even try to rest directly in front of you which simply means that you forgot to ask his permission to walk, and he’d prefer that you stand still until he’s make up his mind.
In training your dog, you need to keep one thing perfectly clear in mind so that it will also be clear in the mind of your dog: You are training your dog, not the other way around.
Regardless of his tricks, and with the end of the long-line held firmly in your hand, go to the destination that you’ve chosen. As Mr. Koehler expresses “Your dog will go with you if for no other reason than to be near you”.
That first sixty seconds of training (the time it takes you to walk thirty to forty-five feet) may indeed be a test of wills. It is crucial that your dog develop assurance that you will win this test of wills. He will develop this assurance if he knows that you will go from point A to point B without considering his resistance.
By the time you reach your predetermined location, the learning processes will have already been triggered within the mind of your dog, so simply stand there for about forty-five seconds to a minute. Look around and observe everything around you except your pet. Do not even look at him. Doing so just might possibly get you hopelessly entangled in an emotional struggle.
When your forty-five seconds to one minute is up, pick another spot at about the same distance and, without warning or tugging on the leash to get your dog’s attention, walk at a brisk pace right to it. Again, do not let your dog stand in your way. If you have to clear your throat or in some other way try to catch your dog’s attention before moving, then your dog is doing a great job of training you.
Don’t ask your dog’s permission to walk and just go! When you reached your spot, pause again for about forty-five seconds to observe your surroundings – but not your dog. Again, pick a location and, without any warning, walk to it at a brisk pace. Continue this process for the full fifteen-minute training session.
In today's article about the first week of training your dog, we are going to apply a basic method that was originated by Mr. William Koehler, a respected animal trainer. His first week's long-line method (slightly changed here) should be highly praised as one of the greatest innovations in canine training.
Regardless of how basic and unpromising these first-week steps may seem, follow them carefully and exactly, and you will have a more obedient dog, one that will learn easier and faster.
Let The Training Begin
On your first day of training, take your dog to the backyard, the sidewalk, or the park (only if it provides little to no distractions). Put the training collar on your dog, making sure that it’s fitted correctly. Tie one end of the long-line to the free ring. Holding the other end of the long-line in your hands, pick a spot at a distance of about thirty to forty-five feet. It could be a tin can, a fire hydrant, or a particular patch of grass. Walk fast in a straight line to that spot. Determine to let nothing stand in your way, especially your dog and his tricks.
If yours is the type of dog who has had no form of total control placed over him, you can bet there’ll be tricks. He may start wailing, which means that he would prefer to go in some other direction and you are not cooperating.
He might roll over on his back and place all four feet in the air trying to hook a claw in the sky, which means he doesn’t particularly want to walk with you because you’re not going to the direction he wants. He may even try to rest directly in front of you which simply means that you forgot to ask his permission to walk, and he’d prefer that you stand still until he’s make up his mind.
In training your dog, you need to keep one thing perfectly clear in mind so that it will also be clear in the mind of your dog: You are training your dog, not the other way around.
Regardless of his tricks, and with the end of the long-line held firmly in your hand, go to the destination that you’ve chosen. As Mr. Koehler expresses “Your dog will go with you if for no other reason than to be near you”.
That first sixty seconds of training (the time it takes you to walk thirty to forty-five feet) may indeed be a test of wills. It is crucial that your dog develop assurance that you will win this test of wills. He will develop this assurance if he knows that you will go from point A to point B without considering his resistance.
By the time you reach your predetermined location, the learning processes will have already been triggered within the mind of your dog, so simply stand there for about forty-five seconds to a minute. Look around and observe everything around you except your pet. Do not even look at him. Doing so just might possibly get you hopelessly entangled in an emotional struggle.
When your forty-five seconds to one minute is up, pick another spot at about the same distance and, without warning or tugging on the leash to get your dog’s attention, walk at a brisk pace right to it. Again, do not let your dog stand in your way. If you have to clear your throat or in some other way try to catch your dog’s attention before moving, then your dog is doing a great job of training you.
Don’t ask your dog’s permission to walk and just go! When you reached your spot, pause again for about forty-five seconds to observe your surroundings – but not your dog. Again, pick a location and, without any warning, walk to it at a brisk pace. Continue this process for the full fifteen-minute training session.
Friday, January 23, 2009
German Shepherd Dog
German Shepherd Dog Breed
The German Shepherd is currently listed as the third most popular dog breed registered with the AKC. This dog resembles that of its ancestor, the Wolf, and was originally bred to be the ideal hurting Shepherd and guard dog.
Although this breed went through several name changes during World War I, mainly due to its German heritage, it was officially renamed the German Shepherd and recognized by the AKC in 1931. And while its popularity ranking is down just a bit, it has been a top choice as a family companion for generations.
German Shepherds score very high in terms of protection ability, watchdog status, and training adaptability. Although playfulness and affection does not rank as high as other dog breeds, the German Shepherd is actually a perfect choice for a family pet.
This dog is extremely protective of its home, as well as members of the family. He is considered aloof and a bit suspicious towards strange people and other animals. However, they can be tamed and gentle around children and other house pets.
Upkeep And Maintenance
As far as upkeep is concerned, German Shepherds need mental and physical challenges on a daily basis. With the ability to learn new tricks and obedience lessons, this dog is extremely intelligent. Physical activity must also be a part of this dog's daily life. Long walks and running outside is ideal.
Health Information
What it comes to health issues, there are two concerns that you need to know about: CHD and elbow dysplasia. Minor health concerns which occasionally strike the German Shepherd are skin allergies, hemangiosarcoma, malignant neoplasms, cataracts, elbow dysplasia, degenerative myelopathy, gastric torsion, and hot spots.
The lifespan of the average healthy German Shepherd is anywhere between 10 and 12 years. This is based on a dog who remains healthy and is active throughout its lifetime. Specific health tests suggested by veterinarians for German Shepherds are elbow dysplasia and hip dysplasia.
The German Shepherd is currently listed as the third most popular dog breed registered with the AKC. This dog resembles that of its ancestor, the Wolf, and was originally bred to be the ideal hurting Shepherd and guard dog.
Although this breed went through several name changes during World War I, mainly due to its German heritage, it was officially renamed the German Shepherd and recognized by the AKC in 1931. And while its popularity ranking is down just a bit, it has been a top choice as a family companion for generations.
German Shepherds score very high in terms of protection ability, watchdog status, and training adaptability. Although playfulness and affection does not rank as high as other dog breeds, the German Shepherd is actually a perfect choice for a family pet.
This dog is extremely protective of its home, as well as members of the family. He is considered aloof and a bit suspicious towards strange people and other animals. However, they can be tamed and gentle around children and other house pets.
Upkeep And Maintenance
As far as upkeep is concerned, German Shepherds need mental and physical challenges on a daily basis. With the ability to learn new tricks and obedience lessons, this dog is extremely intelligent. Physical activity must also be a part of this dog's daily life. Long walks and running outside is ideal.
Health Information
What it comes to health issues, there are two concerns that you need to know about: CHD and elbow dysplasia. Minor health concerns which occasionally strike the German Shepherd are skin allergies, hemangiosarcoma, malignant neoplasms, cataracts, elbow dysplasia, degenerative myelopathy, gastric torsion, and hot spots.
The lifespan of the average healthy German Shepherd is anywhere between 10 and 12 years. This is based on a dog who remains healthy and is active throughout its lifetime. Specific health tests suggested by veterinarians for German Shepherds are elbow dysplasia and hip dysplasia.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Dog Training:Correct Heel Methods (6)
Dog Training: Correct Heel Methods (6)
Now it’s time to find out if your dog has truly learned how to heel and execute an automatic sit.
Give him the command “Heel” and make any necessary corrections for poor heeling or lack of attentiveness to bring him up to the proper mental level of awareness. Come to a stop and command “Sit”. Watch your dog do it all by himself. Get down to his level and praise him enthusiastically.
For the stubborn or uncooperative dog who would rather be helped for the rest of his life, you’ll be surprised to see that he is going to graduate from being spoon-fed whether he wants to or not.
How do you do this? When you come to a stop and command “Sit”, silently count to three. If your dog is not seated by the time you get to three, place both hands on the leash, making sure that there’s a little slack in it, and jerk straight up! Your dog will immediately sit if you make the correction strongly enough. Don’t forget the praise when you’re done.
If he still refuses to sit after the initial correction, consider that correction ineffective. An ineffective correction is inhumane because it means that you will have to keep doing it. This is unfair to your pet and will only create resistance. If you simply tighten the collar around his neck by pulling up slowly on the leash, the only thing you can accomplish is constriction of your dog’s breathing, and you have caused your dog’s training collar to turn into a choking chain.
This is your fault, not his, and he is going to wonder why you have suddenly decided to choke him. So, in all fairness to your dog, make a humane correction by an emphatic and upward jerk of the leash using both hands. Make the correction properly the first time, and chances are you will not have to make it again. Remember to follow the correction with loving praise the moment your dog has responded correctly.
The heel and sit combinations should be continued for one week, after which time you will notice that it’s no longer necessary for you to command “Sit” every time you stop. Your dog will realize that this is what is expected when he is out on a walk and you suddenly come to a stop.
At the end of a week, you can begin dropping the command “Sit” since he will be doing it automatically anyway. Be sure, however, that anytime he fails to sit, make the correction immediately, followed by praise.
Congratulations!
Now you have the proper tools to teach your dog to walk beside you and to sit automatically at your side each time you stop. Why is this crucial? In addition to getting your dog’s attention, which is necessary in order to take him to more advanced levels of training, it will make all the difference in the world when you take him for a walk down a busy street or a crowded place.
Should you stop to talk to someone, your dog is trained to sit at your side patiently, rather than jumping on the person you’re talking to or wrapping the leash around your legs and making a nuisance of himself.
Now it’s time to find out if your dog has truly learned how to heel and execute an automatic sit.
Give him the command “Heel” and make any necessary corrections for poor heeling or lack of attentiveness to bring him up to the proper mental level of awareness. Come to a stop and command “Sit”. Watch your dog do it all by himself. Get down to his level and praise him enthusiastically.
For the stubborn or uncooperative dog who would rather be helped for the rest of his life, you’ll be surprised to see that he is going to graduate from being spoon-fed whether he wants to or not.
How do you do this? When you come to a stop and command “Sit”, silently count to three. If your dog is not seated by the time you get to three, place both hands on the leash, making sure that there’s a little slack in it, and jerk straight up! Your dog will immediately sit if you make the correction strongly enough. Don’t forget the praise when you’re done.
If he still refuses to sit after the initial correction, consider that correction ineffective. An ineffective correction is inhumane because it means that you will have to keep doing it. This is unfair to your pet and will only create resistance. If you simply tighten the collar around his neck by pulling up slowly on the leash, the only thing you can accomplish is constriction of your dog’s breathing, and you have caused your dog’s training collar to turn into a choking chain.
This is your fault, not his, and he is going to wonder why you have suddenly decided to choke him. So, in all fairness to your dog, make a humane correction by an emphatic and upward jerk of the leash using both hands. Make the correction properly the first time, and chances are you will not have to make it again. Remember to follow the correction with loving praise the moment your dog has responded correctly.
The heel and sit combinations should be continued for one week, after which time you will notice that it’s no longer necessary for you to command “Sit” every time you stop. Your dog will realize that this is what is expected when he is out on a walk and you suddenly come to a stop.
At the end of a week, you can begin dropping the command “Sit” since he will be doing it automatically anyway. Be sure, however, that anytime he fails to sit, make the correction immediately, followed by praise.
Congratulations!
Now you have the proper tools to teach your dog to walk beside you and to sit automatically at your side each time you stop. Why is this crucial? In addition to getting your dog’s attention, which is necessary in order to take him to more advanced levels of training, it will make all the difference in the world when you take him for a walk down a busy street or a crowded place.
Should you stop to talk to someone, your dog is trained to sit at your side patiently, rather than jumping on the person you’re talking to or wrapping the leash around your legs and making a nuisance of himself.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Dog Training:Correct Heel Methods (5)
Dog Training: Correct Heel Methods (5)
When you feel that you have sufficient control of your dog while walking, usually within four days of his initial orientation to the leash, you are now ready to go to a higher level of control.
Give your dog the command to heel and begin walking, remembering to start out on your left foot, in a straight line. Make a few right-about turns as necessary to make sure that you have his full attention. Then, as you prepare to come to a stop, shorten your hold on the leash just a bit. As you stop, not after and not before, pull up the leash with your right hand and press gently on the dog’s rear as you say the command “Sit”!
As soon as he sits, praise him and give him a pat on the head. Remember, dogs learn by associating their actions with a pleasing or displeasing result.
Next, give the command “Heel” and begin to walk briskly in a straight line. As you prepare to stop, shorten your hold on the leash. When you stop, pull up on the leash, pressing gently on the rear with your free left hand, at the same time giving the command “Sit”.
Always follow a correct behavioral response by your dog with praise, even if you caused the behavioral response. Even though you are placing your dog in the sitting position, this should still be followed by warm praise.
This will be the pattern throughout the course. You will show your dog what he needs to do and follow it with praise. After the learning process has taken place within the mind of the dog, then will you correct for disobedience.
Your training program at this stage should still be limited to fifteen minutes per day and consist only of the commands “Heel” and “Sit”. Give the command to heel, walk about ten feet, do a right turn, then come to a stop, placing the dog in the sitting position while giving the command to sit. Follow each sit-placing with warm praise.
Dogs with above average intelligence will absorb what you are trying to convey in less than four days and will begin to sit by themselves before you have a chance to place them. However, you must be firm with your decision that, regardless of how fast your dog appears to be catching on, you will continue to place him in the sitting position each time you stop for a period of one week.
When you feel that you have sufficient control of your dog while walking, usually within four days of his initial orientation to the leash, you are now ready to go to a higher level of control.
Give your dog the command to heel and begin walking, remembering to start out on your left foot, in a straight line. Make a few right-about turns as necessary to make sure that you have his full attention. Then, as you prepare to come to a stop, shorten your hold on the leash just a bit. As you stop, not after and not before, pull up the leash with your right hand and press gently on the dog’s rear as you say the command “Sit”!
As soon as he sits, praise him and give him a pat on the head. Remember, dogs learn by associating their actions with a pleasing or displeasing result.
Next, give the command “Heel” and begin to walk briskly in a straight line. As you prepare to stop, shorten your hold on the leash. When you stop, pull up on the leash, pressing gently on the rear with your free left hand, at the same time giving the command “Sit”.
Always follow a correct behavioral response by your dog with praise, even if you caused the behavioral response. Even though you are placing your dog in the sitting position, this should still be followed by warm praise.
This will be the pattern throughout the course. You will show your dog what he needs to do and follow it with praise. After the learning process has taken place within the mind of the dog, then will you correct for disobedience.
Your training program at this stage should still be limited to fifteen minutes per day and consist only of the commands “Heel” and “Sit”. Give the command to heel, walk about ten feet, do a right turn, then come to a stop, placing the dog in the sitting position while giving the command to sit. Follow each sit-placing with warm praise.
Dogs with above average intelligence will absorb what you are trying to convey in less than four days and will begin to sit by themselves before you have a chance to place them. However, you must be firm with your decision that, regardless of how fast your dog appears to be catching on, you will continue to place him in the sitting position each time you stop for a period of one week.
Monday, January 19, 2009
Dog Training:Correct Heel Methods (4)
Dog Training: Correct Heel Methods (4)
When it comes to obedience training, there should be no “half-way action” accepted. In other words, it's all or nothing from your dog. And a crooked sit must be considered as something less than your dog giving his full potential.
Not only does it look shabby, but it also prevents the dog from accomplishing his full measure of discipline and character. You can prevent your dog from developing the bad habit of crooked sits simply by using your free left hand while heeling.
As you prepare to stop during a walk, make sure that your left hand is in a position to place on the dog’s rear in such a way as to prevent him from moving around in front of you after you have come to a complete stop. If your dog succeeds in sitting in a crooked way, hold back the praise until you have straightened his sit. As your left hand drops to his rear, keep your left thumb pointing toward your left leg. This will ensure that you do not accidentally place your dog in a crooked sit.
You do not have to push down heavily on your dog’s rear. You need to simply press lightly to help guide him into the proper sit position. It is more the right hand pulling the leash upward than the amount of pressure on the dog’s rear that will place him easily and quickly in the proper sitting position. Putting heavy pressure on your dog’s rear may stimulate him to resist, which is an unwanted action.
In these learning steps, the less resistance you have, the better off it will be, both for you and your dog. Also keep in mind the importance of a positive attitude.
Recap Of The First 10 Days Of Correct Heel Training
Your first ten days of obedience training should consist of proper leash introduction, getting your dog to walk confidently and happy. This is achieved without lagging or straining as he walks at your left side in the response to the command “Heel”. The first ten days of obedience training also consists of the introduction of the command “Sit” in which you place the dog in the sitting position each time you stop.
Once you are confident about placing your dog in the sitting position, which took one full week, you are now ready to bring your dog to a higher level of discipline, intelligence, and response.
You must decide to never place your pet in the sitting position again. You have spent one full week showing him exactly what sit means, and it only takes four days for the average house dog to learn the average thing. Now, it’s time to show your dog that he must do it for himself and that you will not be leading him by the hand all of the time.
When it comes to obedience training, there should be no “half-way action” accepted. In other words, it's all or nothing from your dog. And a crooked sit must be considered as something less than your dog giving his full potential.
Not only does it look shabby, but it also prevents the dog from accomplishing his full measure of discipline and character. You can prevent your dog from developing the bad habit of crooked sits simply by using your free left hand while heeling.
As you prepare to stop during a walk, make sure that your left hand is in a position to place on the dog’s rear in such a way as to prevent him from moving around in front of you after you have come to a complete stop. If your dog succeeds in sitting in a crooked way, hold back the praise until you have straightened his sit. As your left hand drops to his rear, keep your left thumb pointing toward your left leg. This will ensure that you do not accidentally place your dog in a crooked sit.
You do not have to push down heavily on your dog’s rear. You need to simply press lightly to help guide him into the proper sit position. It is more the right hand pulling the leash upward than the amount of pressure on the dog’s rear that will place him easily and quickly in the proper sitting position. Putting heavy pressure on your dog’s rear may stimulate him to resist, which is an unwanted action.
In these learning steps, the less resistance you have, the better off it will be, both for you and your dog. Also keep in mind the importance of a positive attitude.
Recap Of The First 10 Days Of Correct Heel Training
Your first ten days of obedience training should consist of proper leash introduction, getting your dog to walk confidently and happy. This is achieved without lagging or straining as he walks at your left side in the response to the command “Heel”. The first ten days of obedience training also consists of the introduction of the command “Sit” in which you place the dog in the sitting position each time you stop.
Once you are confident about placing your dog in the sitting position, which took one full week, you are now ready to bring your dog to a higher level of discipline, intelligence, and response.
You must decide to never place your pet in the sitting position again. You have spent one full week showing him exactly what sit means, and it only takes four days for the average house dog to learn the average thing. Now, it’s time to show your dog that he must do it for himself and that you will not be leading him by the hand all of the time.
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Dog Training:Correct Heel Methods (3)
Dog Training: Correct Heel Methods (3)
There are two extremes of personalities in dogs – the introvert and the extrovert. However, there are many degrees in between those two extremes as there are dogs in this planet.
Regardless of where your dog’s personality lies on that scale, once you have given the command to heel you must start walking and continue walking. Encourage your dog to accompany you if necessary. Correct his heedless rush with absolute right-about turns if necessary. But, you should never, ever give in if your dog decides to not follow your command and just “sit this one out”.
Dogs learn by associating their actions with a pleasing or displeasing result. Therefore, the dog who tries to take advantage of the new shortened leash by surging and keeping a strain on it comes to a sudden discovery that you still have the situation very much under control. As soon as he can cause the leash to tighten, he will take his eyes off you, only to feel the sudden jolt of your right-about turn.
By using the reserve slack in your hand properly, your dog will realize that the leash is no different than the long line, except that he must pay even closer attention since the six-foot leash gives him less time to react than the fifteen-foot long-line. He’ll realize how much more pleasing it is to walk at your side so that he can see which way and when you’re going to change direction. Your left hand giving him a pat on the head when he’s in the correct heel position is also more pleasing than the sudden jolt that he gets when not in the proper position.
On the other hand, your introvert dog, one that stands as if he had feet glued to the cement, suddenly feels the slightly displeasing effect of the short, sharp jerks of the leash. Hearing your enthusiastic tone of voice and seeing your left hand pat your leg invitingly will do wonders to make your pet choose the more promising alternative. The moment he does, he will discover the warm, affectionate praise and pat on the head to be far more enjoyable than the series of sharp jolts he experienced as a result of his initial reluctance to walk with you.
You may have to spend each of your fifteen-minute training sessions for the next four days in this simple leash introduction so the introvert-type will walk without any reluctance or fear and to stop the extrovert’s heedless rushes by your unannounced change of direction.
Don't Be Afraid To Use Too Much Pull
Let me describe a scene of what an extrovert dog may do when prompted with a distraction. Picture a dog tied to a tree on a twenty-five foot rope lying in loose coils on the ground. He is sleeping comfortably under the tree when a cat walks by past the dog at a distance of about twenty-seven feet.
The dog wakes up, spots the cat and rushes recklessly to pounce on the poor cat. The dog will be stopped two foot short and very abruptly too. After regaining his composure, he will still strain and tug to try and get the cat. But, unless he’s a total fool, he will not make that reckless rush a second time – not while still tied to a tree. But does he blame the tree? Of course not.
You are not as firm as a tree, so don’t be worried about hurting your pet. Your objective should be clear. Your dog should walk at your left side, neither lagging behind nor surging ahead.
Always remember that the leash should be slack. Eventually, you’ll be heeling your dog without the leash and you will realize the importance of that slack. If your dog is used to feeling a tight leash restraining him in the heeling position, he’ll be long gone when you walk him without the leash later on
There are two extremes of personalities in dogs – the introvert and the extrovert. However, there are many degrees in between those two extremes as there are dogs in this planet.
Regardless of where your dog’s personality lies on that scale, once you have given the command to heel you must start walking and continue walking. Encourage your dog to accompany you if necessary. Correct his heedless rush with absolute right-about turns if necessary. But, you should never, ever give in if your dog decides to not follow your command and just “sit this one out”.
Dogs learn by associating their actions with a pleasing or displeasing result. Therefore, the dog who tries to take advantage of the new shortened leash by surging and keeping a strain on it comes to a sudden discovery that you still have the situation very much under control. As soon as he can cause the leash to tighten, he will take his eyes off you, only to feel the sudden jolt of your right-about turn.
By using the reserve slack in your hand properly, your dog will realize that the leash is no different than the long line, except that he must pay even closer attention since the six-foot leash gives him less time to react than the fifteen-foot long-line. He’ll realize how much more pleasing it is to walk at your side so that he can see which way and when you’re going to change direction. Your left hand giving him a pat on the head when he’s in the correct heel position is also more pleasing than the sudden jolt that he gets when not in the proper position.
On the other hand, your introvert dog, one that stands as if he had feet glued to the cement, suddenly feels the slightly displeasing effect of the short, sharp jerks of the leash. Hearing your enthusiastic tone of voice and seeing your left hand pat your leg invitingly will do wonders to make your pet choose the more promising alternative. The moment he does, he will discover the warm, affectionate praise and pat on the head to be far more enjoyable than the series of sharp jolts he experienced as a result of his initial reluctance to walk with you.
You may have to spend each of your fifteen-minute training sessions for the next four days in this simple leash introduction so the introvert-type will walk without any reluctance or fear and to stop the extrovert’s heedless rushes by your unannounced change of direction.
Don't Be Afraid To Use Too Much Pull
Let me describe a scene of what an extrovert dog may do when prompted with a distraction. Picture a dog tied to a tree on a twenty-five foot rope lying in loose coils on the ground. He is sleeping comfortably under the tree when a cat walks by past the dog at a distance of about twenty-seven feet.
The dog wakes up, spots the cat and rushes recklessly to pounce on the poor cat. The dog will be stopped two foot short and very abruptly too. After regaining his composure, he will still strain and tug to try and get the cat. But, unless he’s a total fool, he will not make that reckless rush a second time – not while still tied to a tree. But does he blame the tree? Of course not.
You are not as firm as a tree, so don’t be worried about hurting your pet. Your objective should be clear. Your dog should walk at your left side, neither lagging behind nor surging ahead.
Always remember that the leash should be slack. Eventually, you’ll be heeling your dog without the leash and you will realize the importance of that slack. If your dog is used to feeling a tight leash restraining him in the heeling position, he’ll be long gone when you walk him without the leash later on
Friday, January 16, 2009
Dog Training:Correct Heel Methods (2)
Dog Training: Correct Heel Methods (2)
As you begin, position your dog at your left side while keeping the leash short. Leave a belly of reserved slack, with your right hand, look at your dog, say his name, then command “Heel”!
Begin walking, starting with your left foot. Walk briskly in a straight line, with confidence in your movement. Your dog will lose confidence in you if you wander aimlessly.
Remembering his experience on the long-line, your dog may walk alongside you fairly comfortably, but the odds are that since there are now only five to six feet connecting the two of you, he will react in one of the two following ways:
1. He will either rush forward past you in an attempt to keep a tight strain on that leash, or
2. He will hold back and be hesitant to walk with you at all. After all, this six-foot training leash is new to him.
If your dog is one that takes off like a marathon runner in a race, either surging ahead or out to the side in an attempt to keep the leash tight, simply open your right hand, release the slack you’ve been holding in reserve, and immediately do a right-about turn and walk in the opposite direction. When your dog is back in the proper heeling position, give him praise and a pat on the head with your free left hand. If you have a small dog, bend over to his level and give him his pat while continuing to walk.
Each time he surges ahead, release the slack as you do and definite right-about turn. Without slowing your pace, pick up some reserve slack and place it once again in your right hand in preparation for his next heedless charge. Your left hand is free to reach down and give him a pat on a head when, and only when, he is in the proper heeling position. That is, at your left side with his head and neck area about even with your left leg. Each time you place the reserve slack in your right hand, be sure to leave a belly of slack in the leash between you and your dog.
An Alternative Method For The Introvert
If your dog has an introvert personality, one that is reluctant to walk with you, you will need a slightly different method. The introvert dog just doesn’t quite understand what’s going on with this new piece of equipment and he’s as reluctant to get involved as a person being taught how to play a new instrument. This type of dog needs a little encouragement and a show of enthusiasm on your part, and don’t let anyone tell you any differently.
Use your free left hand to pat your leg as you give your dog a little talk of encouragement. Use short, forward snaps on the leash to help inspire your dog to walk with you. Watch closely as he begins to discard his reluctance, praise him enthusiastically and warmly. This shows him three things. First, that you are pleased. Second, that everything is alright. And third, that he has made the right decision.
As you begin, position your dog at your left side while keeping the leash short. Leave a belly of reserved slack, with your right hand, look at your dog, say his name, then command “Heel”!
Begin walking, starting with your left foot. Walk briskly in a straight line, with confidence in your movement. Your dog will lose confidence in you if you wander aimlessly.
Remembering his experience on the long-line, your dog may walk alongside you fairly comfortably, but the odds are that since there are now only five to six feet connecting the two of you, he will react in one of the two following ways:
1. He will either rush forward past you in an attempt to keep a tight strain on that leash, or
2. He will hold back and be hesitant to walk with you at all. After all, this six-foot training leash is new to him.
If your dog is one that takes off like a marathon runner in a race, either surging ahead or out to the side in an attempt to keep the leash tight, simply open your right hand, release the slack you’ve been holding in reserve, and immediately do a right-about turn and walk in the opposite direction. When your dog is back in the proper heeling position, give him praise and a pat on the head with your free left hand. If you have a small dog, bend over to his level and give him his pat while continuing to walk.
Each time he surges ahead, release the slack as you do and definite right-about turn. Without slowing your pace, pick up some reserve slack and place it once again in your right hand in preparation for his next heedless charge. Your left hand is free to reach down and give him a pat on a head when, and only when, he is in the proper heeling position. That is, at your left side with his head and neck area about even with your left leg. Each time you place the reserve slack in your right hand, be sure to leave a belly of slack in the leash between you and your dog.
An Alternative Method For The Introvert
If your dog has an introvert personality, one that is reluctant to walk with you, you will need a slightly different method. The introvert dog just doesn’t quite understand what’s going on with this new piece of equipment and he’s as reluctant to get involved as a person being taught how to play a new instrument. This type of dog needs a little encouragement and a show of enthusiasm on your part, and don’t let anyone tell you any differently.
Use your free left hand to pat your leg as you give your dog a little talk of encouragement. Use short, forward snaps on the leash to help inspire your dog to walk with you. Watch closely as he begins to discard his reluctance, praise him enthusiastically and warmly. This shows him three things. First, that you are pleased. Second, that everything is alright. And third, that he has made the right decision.
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Dog Training:correct Heel Methods
Dog Training: Correct Heel Methods (1)
Once you have reached the level in training your dog where he is not fooled by distractions or temptation, you are then ready to proceed to the next level of training – how to heel correctly.
If your dog cannot walk comfortably at your side, there is no way you’re going to teach him anything about being obedient. He must learn to heel properly and focus his full attention to you.
You will be using a six-foot leather training leash for this phase. During this stage of training, you will teach your dog to walk beside you like a gentleman. He will learn to automatically sit at your side when you stop.
No Punishment Needed
The right attitude cannot be achieved if your dog is mistreated or abused. To restrain or choke the dog on a short, tight leash, to hit him in the chest, or to smack his face with the end of the leash while trying to teach him to heel will result, among other things, in a completely negative attitude in the animal.
Starting Position
To begin, you will notice that your leash has a loop in one end. Place your right thumb through that loop. With your left hand, grab the leash at the middle section and place it in your right hand. Notice that the dog is on your left side, but that the leash is held in your right hand. This will seem a little awkward at first, but your left hand will be doing other things.
Do not form the habit of trying to restrain your dog at your side by holding him up close with the left hand on that leash. Remember, you want to train your dog, not restrain him. Forget about everything that you were told or read about restraining a dog tugging at your side in the hope that he will get the idea that this is where you want him to walk. That idea will never occur to him.
There is an important characteristic of an untrained dog on a leash that will become obvious to you during this stage of training. This dog wants to feel a tight leash! If there’s a slack in the leash, he has no way of calculating its exact length. On a tight leash, he can lunge and pull and go through all kinds of twists and turns, because he has the security of feeling where the other end of the leash is. Therefore, it is very important that you don’t give in to your dog’s wishes by walking him on a tight leash.
Once you have reached the level in training your dog where he is not fooled by distractions or temptation, you are then ready to proceed to the next level of training – how to heel correctly.
If your dog cannot walk comfortably at your side, there is no way you’re going to teach him anything about being obedient. He must learn to heel properly and focus his full attention to you.
You will be using a six-foot leather training leash for this phase. During this stage of training, you will teach your dog to walk beside you like a gentleman. He will learn to automatically sit at your side when you stop.
No Punishment Needed
The right attitude cannot be achieved if your dog is mistreated or abused. To restrain or choke the dog on a short, tight leash, to hit him in the chest, or to smack his face with the end of the leash while trying to teach him to heel will result, among other things, in a completely negative attitude in the animal.
Starting Position
To begin, you will notice that your leash has a loop in one end. Place your right thumb through that loop. With your left hand, grab the leash at the middle section and place it in your right hand. Notice that the dog is on your left side, but that the leash is held in your right hand. This will seem a little awkward at first, but your left hand will be doing other things.
Do not form the habit of trying to restrain your dog at your side by holding him up close with the left hand on that leash. Remember, you want to train your dog, not restrain him. Forget about everything that you were told or read about restraining a dog tugging at your side in the hope that he will get the idea that this is where you want him to walk. That idea will never occur to him.
There is an important characteristic of an untrained dog on a leash that will become obvious to you during this stage of training. This dog wants to feel a tight leash! If there’s a slack in the leash, he has no way of calculating its exact length. On a tight leash, he can lunge and pull and go through all kinds of twists and turns, because he has the security of feeling where the other end of the leash is. Therefore, it is very important that you don’t give in to your dog’s wishes by walking him on a tight leash.
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Dog Training Basic Equipment
Dog Training: Basic Equipment Needed To Train Your Family Dog
You will need three specific pieces of equipment to properly train your dog: a training collar, a leather training leash, and a 15-foot length clothesline rope.
If you’re already thinking that your dog’s present leather collar will work, and that his 4-foot chain leash will suffice, you may as well stop reading this article and save yourself and your dog weeks of discomfort and hardship. There simply is no substitute for the right training equipment. A training collar is a slip-chain type made of metal. Don’t substitute one that’s made of nylon.
One of the many things your dog is going to learn is to have confidence in you. But he will never develop that feeling of confidence if you substitute improper training equipment that will not be effective. Where there’s no confidence there can be no respect, and no respect means no desire to please. No desire to please means no willingness to learn. Add them all up and you have an uncontrollable dog that will never achieve his rightful place in human world.
The Proper Leash
Your leash should be of the regular five to six foot leather type with a hand loop at one end. Training collars and leather training leashes are available at pet shops and via online catalogs. Training collars are sometimes called choke-chains, which is incorrect. While it’s true that a training collar can choke, if it’s worn on the dog correctly and used properly, there’s no way it can be a choke-chain and cause harm to your pet.
The Right Collar
The collar should be large enough to slide over the dog’s head comfortably, but not so large as to fall over the ears if the dog should lower his head. A good rule of thumb to follow is to place the collar on the dog and cinch it up tight for a moment and observe whether you have three inches of chain left over. If so, you have a fairly good fit. It is better to have a training collar that’s slightly too large than one slightly too small.
Final Dog Training Necessities That You Cannot Find In A Store
The remaining equipment that you’ll need cannot be purchased at any store, but without them, you cannot successfully train your dog.
You must love and care for your dog! You must have patience and exercise patience while your dog is learning. A shallow patience mixed with a short temper will ensure complete and utter failure.
To lose your cool and blow up means the end of training, so here’s a little tip that might help you keep your cool:
It takes 4 to 5 days for an average dog to learn the average thing. Do not expect your dog to perform like a professional the first few days of teaching him something new. It just doesn’t happen that way. If you lose control of yourself, you have lost control of the situation. When this happens, your dog loses confidence in you.
You will need three specific pieces of equipment to properly train your dog: a training collar, a leather training leash, and a 15-foot length clothesline rope.
If you’re already thinking that your dog’s present leather collar will work, and that his 4-foot chain leash will suffice, you may as well stop reading this article and save yourself and your dog weeks of discomfort and hardship. There simply is no substitute for the right training equipment. A training collar is a slip-chain type made of metal. Don’t substitute one that’s made of nylon.
One of the many things your dog is going to learn is to have confidence in you. But he will never develop that feeling of confidence if you substitute improper training equipment that will not be effective. Where there’s no confidence there can be no respect, and no respect means no desire to please. No desire to please means no willingness to learn. Add them all up and you have an uncontrollable dog that will never achieve his rightful place in human world.
The Proper Leash
Your leash should be of the regular five to six foot leather type with a hand loop at one end. Training collars and leather training leashes are available at pet shops and via online catalogs. Training collars are sometimes called choke-chains, which is incorrect. While it’s true that a training collar can choke, if it’s worn on the dog correctly and used properly, there’s no way it can be a choke-chain and cause harm to your pet.
The Right Collar
The collar should be large enough to slide over the dog’s head comfortably, but not so large as to fall over the ears if the dog should lower his head. A good rule of thumb to follow is to place the collar on the dog and cinch it up tight for a moment and observe whether you have three inches of chain left over. If so, you have a fairly good fit. It is better to have a training collar that’s slightly too large than one slightly too small.
Final Dog Training Necessities That You Cannot Find In A Store
The remaining equipment that you’ll need cannot be purchased at any store, but without them, you cannot successfully train your dog.
You must love and care for your dog! You must have patience and exercise patience while your dog is learning. A shallow patience mixed with a short temper will ensure complete and utter failure.
To lose your cool and blow up means the end of training, so here’s a little tip that might help you keep your cool:
It takes 4 to 5 days for an average dog to learn the average thing. Do not expect your dog to perform like a professional the first few days of teaching him something new. It just doesn’t happen that way. If you lose control of yourself, you have lost control of the situation. When this happens, your dog loses confidence in you.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Dog Sports
Dog Sports - Two Popular Canine Sports You & Your Athletic Dog Will Love
Getting your dog involved in dog sports requires preparation and knowledge. What you need to do beforehand is get familiar with the type of breed you have, his physical capabilities, and his interests.
Once you have figured out the three factors stated above, you’ll have an easier time deciding on the best sport to choose for your dog. The sport should be something that you also enjoy, since both you and your dog are going to be in this together. If you have the time, go to different sporting or activity events and just watch the other dogs and owners perform. This is a good way to get a feel for what each sport entails.
If you are lucky then there will be dog sporting events in your area. If the sport of your choice is three hours away from where you live, you may be better off participating in one that is just two blocks down the street. You can always look for other sports or activities later. Many dog owners engage their dogs in more than one activity.
Below is a list of two of the popular sports for dogs and their owners:
Agility: A very popular dog sport that gained recognition by the American Kennel Club (AKC) and the United Kennel Club (UKC). In this activity, the handler or owner has a limited amount of time to direct his dog through an obstacle course that consists of ramps, tunnels, climbs, jumps, and other challenges.
Agility is a fun sport where dogs and owners go through the challenge together as a team. The dog’s performance is determined by his speed and accuracy as he performs through the course. Obedience training and the ability to follow instructions is a must, since this activity requires the dog to be off the leash and only relies on the owner’s body signals and verbal commands to guide him through the course.
Obedience Trials: In this sport, the dog must demonstrate his role as a civilized human companion by accurately performing a predefined set of actions as directed by his owner or handler.
Obedience trials provide a great opportunity for the dog and his owner to work as a team. Dogs and owners are evaluated on precision, accuracy, the owner’s movement, and the dog’s willingness to cooperate and follow directions.
The American Kennel Club obedience competitions have three levels. Beginner’s level is referred to as Novice, intermediate level is referred to as Open, and advanced level is called Utility. The dog needs to complete the requirements for each level before advancing to the next. Examples of exercises are: Recall (Come), Drop on Recall, Heel, and Sit.
Getting your dog involved in dog sports requires preparation and knowledge. What you need to do beforehand is get familiar with the type of breed you have, his physical capabilities, and his interests.
Once you have figured out the three factors stated above, you’ll have an easier time deciding on the best sport to choose for your dog. The sport should be something that you also enjoy, since both you and your dog are going to be in this together. If you have the time, go to different sporting or activity events and just watch the other dogs and owners perform. This is a good way to get a feel for what each sport entails.
If you are lucky then there will be dog sporting events in your area. If the sport of your choice is three hours away from where you live, you may be better off participating in one that is just two blocks down the street. You can always look for other sports or activities later. Many dog owners engage their dogs in more than one activity.
Below is a list of two of the popular sports for dogs and their owners:
Agility: A very popular dog sport that gained recognition by the American Kennel Club (AKC) and the United Kennel Club (UKC). In this activity, the handler or owner has a limited amount of time to direct his dog through an obstacle course that consists of ramps, tunnels, climbs, jumps, and other challenges.
Agility is a fun sport where dogs and owners go through the challenge together as a team. The dog’s performance is determined by his speed and accuracy as he performs through the course. Obedience training and the ability to follow instructions is a must, since this activity requires the dog to be off the leash and only relies on the owner’s body signals and verbal commands to guide him through the course.
Obedience Trials: In this sport, the dog must demonstrate his role as a civilized human companion by accurately performing a predefined set of actions as directed by his owner or handler.
Obedience trials provide a great opportunity for the dog and his owner to work as a team. Dogs and owners are evaluated on precision, accuracy, the owner’s movement, and the dog’s willingness to cooperate and follow directions.
The American Kennel Club obedience competitions have three levels. Beginner’s level is referred to as Novice, intermediate level is referred to as Open, and advanced level is called Utility. The dog needs to complete the requirements for each level before advancing to the next. Examples of exercises are: Recall (Come), Drop on Recall, Heel, and Sit.
Monday, January 12, 2009
Dog Breed Training Groups
Dog Breed Training Groups - Investigate Each Group Thoroughly Before Signing Up
There are hundreds of dog training books that can be found in libraries, bookstores, and on the Internet. Most of them are just fine and teach thorough, positive training methods. But I have yet to see any of them that make a point of stressing the fact that dogs are living, breathing beings that have emotions, feelings, and unique personalities.
You can have two Labrador Retrievers that, emotionally, may be as different between each each as a Rottweiler would be to a Pomeranian. The training protocol and corrections for one dog may not be necessarily suited to the character and personality of the other.
A suitable training correction for a dog that has an outgoing personality and is on the stubborn side may cause trauma to a dog that is naturally sensitive and cannot emotionally handle such dog training tactics, even if both dogs are the exact same breed.
Professional Obedience & Dog Breed Clubs
You'll find many clubs devoted to specific breeds and training groups all around the country. They are considered to be the most reliable and educated people to go to for training and specific breed information. For the vast majority of information, this is probably true, but some are are also guilty at assuming all dogs of the same breed should be trained and treated in the exact same manner.
The blame should rest upon whomever is running the group. However, choosing this leader is typically nothing more than a personality contest instead of their education and training history with canines. Criterion for the selection usually boils down to whomever is the most persuasive speaker, has had the longest membership, or even how bad the person wants the job.
There was one group who selected the lead trainer and spokesperson solely based on the fact that she had the best working dog the year before. There ware no requirements about success in the dog training area.
Another group had a specific opening for just "trainer" and the only requirement was that they had to have worked their own dog up to receive the Companion Dog Title. What training methods that person used, or whether or not it was positive or aggressive, had no bearing on the position. Pretty important stuff if you ask me, right?
Investigate Before Allowing Your Dog To Be Trained By Such A Group
If you are considering paying for dog training lessons with a specific group, even if the group is nationally recognized, asked the same questions you would from any dog trainer:
1. What are his or her references?
2. How many dogs have the trained?
3. Where did they get their knowledge and training advice from?
4. Do they admit that no 2 dogs are alike, even from the same breed type?
5. Do they use harsh training methods?
There are hundreds of dog training books that can be found in libraries, bookstores, and on the Internet. Most of them are just fine and teach thorough, positive training methods. But I have yet to see any of them that make a point of stressing the fact that dogs are living, breathing beings that have emotions, feelings, and unique personalities.
You can have two Labrador Retrievers that, emotionally, may be as different between each each as a Rottweiler would be to a Pomeranian. The training protocol and corrections for one dog may not be necessarily suited to the character and personality of the other.
A suitable training correction for a dog that has an outgoing personality and is on the stubborn side may cause trauma to a dog that is naturally sensitive and cannot emotionally handle such dog training tactics, even if both dogs are the exact same breed.
Professional Obedience & Dog Breed Clubs
You'll find many clubs devoted to specific breeds and training groups all around the country. They are considered to be the most reliable and educated people to go to for training and specific breed information. For the vast majority of information, this is probably true, but some are are also guilty at assuming all dogs of the same breed should be trained and treated in the exact same manner.
The blame should rest upon whomever is running the group. However, choosing this leader is typically nothing more than a personality contest instead of their education and training history with canines. Criterion for the selection usually boils down to whomever is the most persuasive speaker, has had the longest membership, or even how bad the person wants the job.
There was one group who selected the lead trainer and spokesperson solely based on the fact that she had the best working dog the year before. There ware no requirements about success in the dog training area.
Another group had a specific opening for just "trainer" and the only requirement was that they had to have worked their own dog up to receive the Companion Dog Title. What training methods that person used, or whether or not it was positive or aggressive, had no bearing on the position. Pretty important stuff if you ask me, right?
Investigate Before Allowing Your Dog To Be Trained By Such A Group
If you are considering paying for dog training lessons with a specific group, even if the group is nationally recognized, asked the same questions you would from any dog trainer:
1. What are his or her references?
2. How many dogs have the trained?
3. Where did they get their knowledge and training advice from?
4. Do they admit that no 2 dogs are alike, even from the same breed type?
5. Do they use harsh training methods?
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Your Dog Is Older Now,So Treat Him With More Respect
Adult Dog – Your Dog Is Older Now, So Treat Him With More Respect & Understanding
You give your dog food and shelter in order to keep him alive. But there are three other things that he needs in order to stay healthy, happy, and improve the quality of his life. First, he needs regular exercise to keep his body in shape. Second, his mind needs to be stimulated to keep him alert and occupied. And third, he needs to be socialized continually in order for him to stay confident and happy.
Keep Your Adult Dog Entertained And Avoid Punishing Him For Sudden Mistakes
Dogs feel sadness when their family tends to ignore them or do not spend enough quality time with them. And when dogs get sad, they act up by displaying negative behaviors. This includes chewing, digging, barking incessantly, and they may even run away. These adult dogs are not acting bad on purpose. They are just reverting back to their natural canine behaviors in order to entertain themselves. And since they cannot communicate with words, they communicate with action.
Don't Just Love Your Dog When He's Good
Learn to love your pet unconditionally and when he misbehaves, try to seek out the reason for the behavioral problem instead of scolding or punishing the dog. Remember that he is an adult now and is probably very well behaved most, if not all the time. This means that when he lashes out and does something wrong, it is typically related to an underlying cause which you can treat with success. Something may be lacking or out of balance with your dog. Find the cause and then provide the solution.
Keep Your Adult Dog Socialized
Sometimes as our dogs get older and become more mature, we tend to not take them out as much as we did when they were puppies. This is quite understandable since adult dogs seem to enjoy just lounging around the house in their adult years and watching TV with you. However, to keep your dogs' mind stimulated and his social skills intact, do your best to take him out as often as possible to greet other people and other dogs.
You give your dog food and shelter in order to keep him alive. But there are three other things that he needs in order to stay healthy, happy, and improve the quality of his life. First, he needs regular exercise to keep his body in shape. Second, his mind needs to be stimulated to keep him alert and occupied. And third, he needs to be socialized continually in order for him to stay confident and happy.
Keep Your Adult Dog Entertained And Avoid Punishing Him For Sudden Mistakes
Dogs feel sadness when their family tends to ignore them or do not spend enough quality time with them. And when dogs get sad, they act up by displaying negative behaviors. This includes chewing, digging, barking incessantly, and they may even run away. These adult dogs are not acting bad on purpose. They are just reverting back to their natural canine behaviors in order to entertain themselves. And since they cannot communicate with words, they communicate with action.
Don't Just Love Your Dog When He's Good
Learn to love your pet unconditionally and when he misbehaves, try to seek out the reason for the behavioral problem instead of scolding or punishing the dog. Remember that he is an adult now and is probably very well behaved most, if not all the time. This means that when he lashes out and does something wrong, it is typically related to an underlying cause which you can treat with success. Something may be lacking or out of balance with your dog. Find the cause and then provide the solution.
Keep Your Adult Dog Socialized
Sometimes as our dogs get older and become more mature, we tend to not take them out as much as we did when they were puppies. This is quite understandable since adult dogs seem to enjoy just lounging around the house in their adult years and watching TV with you. However, to keep your dogs' mind stimulated and his social skills intact, do your best to take him out as often as possible to greet other people and other dogs.
Friday, January 9, 2009
Dog Training
Adult Dog Training – What To Expect From Your Dog As He Reaches His Adult Years
Your dog has finally reached his adulthood and this means that the period of training, adjusting, socializing, and more training have come to a stopping point (for the most part, that is).
This is the period where you can really appreciate his companionship, his friendship, and even his help around the house (depending on his level of training). The point is, is you don't have to babysit him anymore. It is the stage in your dog's life where he can walk alongside you off leash, sit and watch you wash your car, maybe even hold the hose for you, or just sit quietly with you in in the backyard while you read a book.
However, training should not stop just because your dog has reached adulthood. A good formula for keeping your dog's body healthy and his mind sharp throughout his adult years is to have 3 training sessions a week. The training does not have to be laborious, nor does it have to take long. All it takes is about 10 to 15 minutes per session, and training can be about practicing and/or improving skills that he has already learned.
There are several benefits to continue training your adult dog on a regular basis.
1. Regular training keeps his mind alert and active.
2. It keeps his body strong and in shape.
3. It serves as refresher courses to different commands and tricks that he had already acquired.
4. It keeps him aware of the rules that you have enforced for him.
5. It prevents boredom.
6. It develops great team work between you and him.
7. And best of all, it will deepen the bond that the two of you have together. If he remains active throughout the whole aspect of his life (physical, mental, social), then he will continue to play an active role in your life, be a team player, and be able to share wonderful times together.
Physical Needs Of An Adult Dog
The physical needs of your dog peaks during his developmental adolescent stage. But once he passes the adolescent stage and reaches adulthood, his physical needs will arrive at a period where there will be no significant change to the amount of exercise that his body needs to stay healthy.
As an adult dog, the amount of exercise that his body requires will depend on his size, breed, and personality type. Continue with the regular walks and occasional runs. A game of ball should also be on your list, as well as swimming if your dog likes being in the water. If you have a large and/or energetic dog, you may have to do more than those listed above. If you have a small and/or less active dog, you will still need to give him exercise. You just have to tame it down, depending on his level of endurance.
Your dog has finally reached his adulthood and this means that the period of training, adjusting, socializing, and more training have come to a stopping point (for the most part, that is).
This is the period where you can really appreciate his companionship, his friendship, and even his help around the house (depending on his level of training). The point is, is you don't have to babysit him anymore. It is the stage in your dog's life where he can walk alongside you off leash, sit and watch you wash your car, maybe even hold the hose for you, or just sit quietly with you in in the backyard while you read a book.
However, training should not stop just because your dog has reached adulthood. A good formula for keeping your dog's body healthy and his mind sharp throughout his adult years is to have 3 training sessions a week. The training does not have to be laborious, nor does it have to take long. All it takes is about 10 to 15 minutes per session, and training can be about practicing and/or improving skills that he has already learned.
There are several benefits to continue training your adult dog on a regular basis.
1. Regular training keeps his mind alert and active.
2. It keeps his body strong and in shape.
3. It serves as refresher courses to different commands and tricks that he had already acquired.
4. It keeps him aware of the rules that you have enforced for him.
5. It prevents boredom.
6. It develops great team work between you and him.
7. And best of all, it will deepen the bond that the two of you have together. If he remains active throughout the whole aspect of his life (physical, mental, social), then he will continue to play an active role in your life, be a team player, and be able to share wonderful times together.
Physical Needs Of An Adult Dog
The physical needs of your dog peaks during his developmental adolescent stage. But once he passes the adolescent stage and reaches adulthood, his physical needs will arrive at a period where there will be no significant change to the amount of exercise that his body needs to stay healthy.
As an adult dog, the amount of exercise that his body requires will depend on his size, breed, and personality type. Continue with the regular walks and occasional runs. A game of ball should also be on your list, as well as swimming if your dog likes being in the water. If you have a large and/or energetic dog, you may have to do more than those listed above. If you have a small and/or less active dog, you will still need to give him exercise. You just have to tame it down, depending on his level of endurance.
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